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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



GORDON'S WORK 

ON 

Cutting Mens' Garments 



A COMPLETE TREATISE 

ON THE 

ART AND SCIENCE OF DELINEATING 
ALL CARMENTS FOR MEN 

Especially Prepared for Self=Instruction 

BY S. S. GORDON 



Publishers : 
The S. S. GORDON COMPANY 

Huntington ( L. I. ) N. Y. 






/ 



COPYRIGHT, 1910, 

BY 

S. S. GORDON COMPANY 



©CU259993 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

The Drafting-Square 8 

The Measures for a Coat 10 

Three-Button Cutaway Frock Coat, Body-Part n 

One and Three Button Frock Coat, Body-Part 16 

Three Button Cutaway Frock Coat, Body-Part, Corpulent 

Form 18 

The Arm-Scye 20 

Frock Coat Backs 22 

Whole Backs for Frock Coats 24 

The Cutaway Skirt, Regular Form 26 

The Cutaway Skirt, Corpulent Form 28 

Double Breasted Frock Coat, Body-Part, Erect Form 30 

Double Breasted Frock Coat, Body-Part, Corpulent Form.. 34 

High Padded Shoulders 36 

Single Breasted Straight Front Frock Coat 36 

Single Breasted Clerical Frock Coat 36 

Frock Coat Skirt, Regular Form 38 

Frock Coat Skirt, Corpulent Form 40 

Frock Coat Skirt, Extra Drapery 42 

Dress Coat, Regular Form, Body-Part 44 

Dress Coat Skirt, Regular Form 46 

Dress Coat, Body-Part 48 

Dress Coat Skirt 52 

Single Breasted Sack Coat, Regular Form 54 



PAGE 

Single Breasted Sack Coat, Style-Effects 57 

Long Roll Sack Coat Without Under-arm-seam 60 

Double Breasted Sack Coat 62 

Single Breasted Uniform Jacket 64 

Single Breasted Sack Coat, Corpulent Form 67 

Whole Backs for Sack Coats 72 

The Sleeve 74 

Overcoats, Allowance for extra size 78 

The "Chesterfield" or Fly Front Overcoat 78 

Fly Front Overcoat, Flared Skirts 82 

Fly Front, Full Box Overcoat, Corpulent Form 86 

The Inverness, Without Sleeves 89 

The Inverness, With Sleeves 92 

Double Breasted Full Box Overcoat. Square and Raglan 

Shoulders 94 

The Raglan Sleeve 98 

Fly Front Paletot 102 

Surtout or Newmarket Overcoat 104 

Three-Quarter or Military Cape 108 

Half-Circle Cape no 

Close Cape 112 

Hood 114 

The Table of Proportionate Measures 117 

How to use the Table for Proportionate Forms 116 

How to use the Table for Disproportionate Forms 118 

The Measuring Device 121 

How to Measure, Coats 122 

How to Measure, Vests 126 



PAGE 

How to Measure, Trousers 126 

Single Breasted Vest, No Collar and Notch Collar 127 

Single Breasted Vest, Coat collar effect 130 

Double Breasted Vest 132 

Clerical Vests 134 

Single Breasted Vest, Corpulent Form 136 

Cassock Vest 138 

Dress Vest 140 

Trousers, Regular Form 142 

Peg Top Trousers 144 

Trousers with Close-Fitting- Legs and Spring Bottoms.... 147 

Some Variations in Trousers Cutting 150 

Trousers with Broadfalls 154 

Knee Breeches 156 

Cycling Breeches 1 58 

Riding Breeches 160 

General Notes 33 and 107 

S. 1 >. Sackcoat 168 

Fancy Cutaway 170 

Opera Coat 172 

The Importance of Right Measures 174 



INTRODUCTION. 

IT is not necessary, upon your undertaking this course of in- 
struction, that I should indulge in any remarks upon the high 
and honorable character of the vocation of a good cutter, or 
the liberal and substantial reward that is sure to attend those 
who are skillful and proficient as such. Your decision to prepare 
for that occupation is evidence that you appreciate the advan- 
tages which will be yours when you are fully equipped with the 
technical knowledge, which, (fortified by practical experience), 
is essential to one engaged in, or has a desire to excel in this, 
or in any profession. My earnest wish is that you have chosen 
an occupation for which you have good aptitude and natural abil- 
ity. Then the way to success will be easy and you will derive 
pleasure and great satisfaction in your work. It will be very 
gratifying to know that, before a great while, you shall have 
attained distinction in the field of effort which you have chosen, 
and I stand pledged to do all I can to aid you in that direction. I 
only ask your earnest and steady co-operation. 

Faithfully yours, 

S. S. GORDON. 



(7) 



THE DRAFTING-SQUARE. 

V/ OUR attention is first directed to a clear understanding of the 
terms used in the explanations of the diagrams which are to 
follow, and relating to the Drafting-Square, a cut of which is 
herein shown. 

In all these explanations, whenever the fractions 1/6, y&, %, 
1/3, y 2 , etc., are used, unless expressly stated otherwise, the}' are 
according to the several divisions of "one-half" of the full size 
of the breast, waist or seat, as are to be found on the face side 
of the square shown on the illustration. 

For example : The distance from any one point to another 
is given as 34 waist, the full waist being, say 32 inches. To 
determine the distance find half of 32, which is 16, on the divi- 
sions of fourths, which you will find is at "B" on the illustration. 
From there to the angle of the square at "A" is J 4 waist, or 4 
inches. 

For a 36 waist, T 4 waist is from the angle "A" to half of 36, 
C18), on the divisions of fourths, just beyond "B.". When it is 
said that from one point to another is one full fourth, (breast, 
waist or seat), then is meant a full fourth, which for a 32 waist 
is 8 inches. Note the difference then clearly between what is 
meant by l /\ and a full fourth, 

A full half of a 36 breast is 18 inches. But )/ 2 of a 36 breast 
is from "A" to 18 on the divisions of halves, as. at "C." 

A full sixth of a 40 breast is 6 2/3 inches. But 1/6 is 20, (one- 
naif of 40) on the divisions of sixths. One-third of a 40 breast is 
from A to G. To find 2/3 of a 44 seat, find half of 44, (22) on 
the division of "two-thirds," as at "H." From A to H is then 
2/3 of a 44 seat. 

Fix this clearly in your mind. Y\ nen the words "half of the 
full breast, waist or seat" are used, it means a full half. But 
when fractions are used, as ^2, then is meant y 2 of the breast, waist 
or seat as found on the drafting-square on the divisions of 
halves. And so all the way through, be it i/3rd, >^th, i/6th, j/gth, 
or any other fraction, then is meant one-half of the full size on 
the division of the drafting-square named. 

The divisions of 32nds, i6ths, 8ths, 4th and halves are on the 
short arm of the square. Those of 24ths, I2ths, 6ths, 3rds and 
2/3rds are on the long arm. 

For full sizes use the reverse side of the square. 

(8) 



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(9) 



THE MEASURES FOR A COAT. 

HTHE measures used when drafting a coat pattern (in custom 
cutting), are as follows: 



i — Breast. 

2 — Waist. 

3 — Seat. 

4 — Half-back width. 

5 — Back-scye depth. 

6 — Length to natural waist. j 13 — Back waist 

7 — Length to seat-line. 14 — Armscye. 



8— Full length. 

9— Blade. 

10 — Front-scye depth. 
1 1 — Over-shoulder. 
12 — Slee\ r e length. 



The seventh measure is omitted when measuring for frock- 
coats, and the length from the collar-seam to the fashionable 
waist is substituted. 

Further on the manner in which the measures are taken is 
fully illustrated and explained. For the present the student must 
become familiar with the order in which they are taken, and 
should always adhere to the established order. 

In the explanation of Diagram 1, I have taken pains to make 
everything so plain that it may be as clear to you as if I was 
talking to you at your side. When you have mastered that les- 
son it will not be necessary that I should repeat in the explana- 
tions of the diagrams which follow in the same extended man- 
ner, and the greater part that is contained in the explanation for 
Diagram 1, will not be repeated. 

You should now provide yourself with a suitable table, some 
paper, either in sheets about 36 inches wide, or in rolls, some 
tailor's chalk, a couple of paper weights, a drafting-square, a tape- 
measure and paper shears. You should have some suitable piece 
of cloth for the top of your table, as you cannot draft as well 
when the paper is laid directly on the hard surface of the table. 
Use white chalk with colored paper and black chalk with white 
paper. Your tape-measure should be tested frequently, by your 
square or yard-stick. Some shrink and some stretch, and you 
must look out for that. 

Remember the maxim "Make Haste Slowly." Do not leave 
a lesson until you have fully mastered it, and each succeeding 
one will be the more readily acquired. 

(10) 



THREE-BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK-COAT. 

Plain or Natural Shoulder. 

Diagram i. 

HTHE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as fol- 
lows, viz. : 36 breast,, 32 waist, 7 half-back width, 9 back-scye 
depth, 163^2 natural-waist, 18 fashionable waist, 11 blade, 12^ 
front-scye depth 17 y% over-shoulder, 7 V\ back-waist and 16 ^4 
arm-scye. 

Square the lines AE and A 19. 

(To do this, place the drafting-square near the edge of the 
paper next to you, the long arm of the square lying as on the line 
from A to E, and the short arm extended across the paper at 
your right hand. The angle of the square will then be as at "A." 
Leave about 10 inches of paper at the right of the short arm, and 
when the square is in this position, mark with pencil or chalk 
close against the outer edges of both arms of the square. This 
gives the lines AE and A 19. By the way, your chalk needs 
to be sharpened to a thin, flat edge, so that you can mark close 
against the square. Hold the square in position firmly by the 
left hand so that it will not slip or turn.) 

Place the angle of the square Y± inch below A and mark the 
back-scye depth, 9. This gives B. Then mark the length to 
natural-waist, 16^2. This gives D. Then mark the fashionable 
waist length, 18. This gives E. Remove the square. (The 
angle of the square is lettered "A." See illustration on page 9.) 

From B to C is one-half of the back-scye depth. (The back- 
scye depth in this case is 9 inches and B and C is therefore \Vi 
inches.) 

Square forward from C, B, D and E. (Lay the short arm of 
the square to touch all along on the line AE, with the long arm 
extended on your right hand side across the paper and the angle 
of the square at C. Then mark along the edge of the long arm 
towards 14. This is what is meant by "squaring forward." The 
line from C toward 14 is at a right angle, or square with the line 
AE.) 

Now square forward in the same manner from B, D and E, 
only when squaring from D and E, let the long arm and the angle 
of the square be at your left half and the short arm be extended 
upwards towards A. Be sure that the short arm touches the line 
AE its entire length, because if it does not, your lines will not 
be square with each other. To be a good cutter you must be 
square yourself and be able to draw lines square with each other. 
D to F is ^ inch. Draw a light line straight from A to F. 

(TI) 



(This is called a guide line), and shape the center-of-back seam 
as represented by the solid line. (This is rounded outward 
slightly from A to B, and slightly hollowed just above D.) 

F to T is l /g breast, 2)/\ inches in this case. It may be made 
more according to style. (One-eighth of 36 breast is found by 
taking half of 36, which is 18, and finding 18 on the divisions of 
eighths on the square. See A to D on the illustration on page 
9.) 

Square downward from F and T by the waist-line D3. 

Place the angle of the square at B and mark the blade, n 
inches. This gives K. Also mark a full half of the breast, 18 
inches. This gives O. 

From K to L is Y_\ inch and K to M is i l / 2 inch. 

From K to P is 1% inch more than 1/6 breast. (Find half 
of the breast 18 on the divisions of sixths on the square. This is 
opposite 3 inches. So then, 1/6 of 36 breast is 3 inches, and 1% 
inch more is 4^ inches.) 

Q to R is 2 l / 2 inches, R to 2 is 1% inch when the edges of the 
coat are to be stitched, and 1 inch when they are to be bound. 

Square downward from K by the breast-line B2 to establish S. 

Square downward by the breast-line from M and R, and up- 
ward from M and P. 

T is half-way B to M. From I to J is 1% inch. Square up- 
ward from J to obtain the natural half-back width. 

From C to Z is ^ inch more than the measured half-back 
width, yYi inches in all. Square upward and downward through 
Z This establishes 19. In this case the natural and the meas- 
ured half-back width are alike. 

A to G is 1/6 breast. (Half of the breast, 18 on the divisions 
of sixths which is 3 inches.) 

Square upward from G. G to H is 1/24 breast, ->4 inch. (Find 
half of the breast, 18 on the divisions of 24ths.) 

Connect H and P by a straight line. From Z to 5 is 1 inch, or 
to style. Shape the back-scye from 4, which is %, T A or Z A i ncn < 
or' more forward of the line above Z, according to style, to 5 and 
to K. (This is represented by a broken line from 5 to K.) The 
bottom of the scye is J /\ inch below the breast-line. 

Mark for the sleeve-notch at front of scye as at the unlettered 
point I V2 inch above M, and draw a light line from the notch to 
5. Reshape the top of the sidebody from y% inch forward of 5 to 
K, as represented by the heavy line. 

Draw a light straight line from 19 to the center-of-back oppo- 
site E. This establishes 20 on the breast-line. Shape the back- 
part free handed from 5 through 20 to T, and the top of the back, 

(12) 




Diagram 1. 



(13) 



A to H, as represented. (The shoulder-seam edge of the back is 
hollowed slightly from a straight line from H to half-way from 
H to 4.) 

From L to X is Y\ inch more than the front-scye depth, 13^ 
inches in all. (This Y mcn is f° r tne three seams between the 
front-of-scye and the center-of-back at the collar-seam, viz., one 
at the center-of-back at A, one at the back-shoulder and one at 
the front-shoulder. From L to Y is }i inch more than the over- 
shoulder, 18^ inches in all. (This V 4 inch is also for the same 
three seams as just explained.) 

Connect L and X to establish 14. 

Sweep forward from X, pivoting at L. (Take chalk in the 
right hand, place it on one end of the tape-measure with the 
other end extended towards the left hand. Place the chalk at 
X and extend the tape to L. Hold the tape by the left thumb 
at L and swing the right hand and chalk forward from X. The 
broken line represents the sweep-mark.) 

Sweep backwards also in the same manner from Y, pivoting 
at 14. 

From X to 17 is Y\ breast, 4^ inches. (Half of the breast, 18 
on the divisions of fourths.) Square forward from 17 by the line 
from X to L. 

From F to T and S to U is the back-waist, 7^ inches. (Take 
the width from F to T, and whatever that is place it at S and 
mark backward JY\ inches. This gives U.) 

N is half-way from I to M. Square downward from N to 
establish 1. 

From T to 6 is 2 inches. Take the quantity between U and 6 
and divide it equally on each side of 1 as represented. This gives 
7 and 8. 

(You will now observe that by measuring the draft from S 
to 8, 7 to 6 and T to F, that it is the same as the back-waist meas- 
ure, 7)4 inches, and that all the surplus through that part, which 
is represented by the quantity between U and T, has been elim- 
inated, a part between T and 6, and the remainder between 7 and 
8. This feature is not found in any other published system and 
is of the greatest value. Forms vary greatly in attitude, hollow- 
ness and fullness through the back-waist, and any system that 
distributes the material through that part by proportions, (in 
custom cutting), is very unreliable and is responsible for much 
very serious trouble. It is a misnomer to call any system of cut- 
ting a "short-measure" system which lacks this feature.) 

Sharpen your chalk and proceed to shape the sidebody from 
Y% inch forward of 5, passing not more than ]/\ inch forward of 
20 and through 6, also from N through 7 as represented. 

(14) 



(These lines are shaped free-handed. You will be assisted by 
first drawing light straight lines from N to 7 and N to 8. The 
front edge of the sidebody is slightly hollowed on the waist-line 
and has a slight spring forward from 7 to 10. The forepart is 
shaped a trifle backward of a straight line, just below N, crossing 
the straight line about halfway from N to 8, going a shade for- 
ward of it just above 8 and passing through 8 with a very slight 
backward spring towards 11.) 

With the tape-measure take the distance from 20 on the side- 
seam of the backpart to the fashionable-waist line at E, and make 
from opposite 20 on the sidebody to 9 at the bcttom ]/\ inch more. 

Point 10 is % inch above the fashionable-waist line. Shape 
from 9 to 10 by a slightly downward curved line as represented. 

From F to T and U to V is a full half of the waist, 16 inches. 

From V to W is 2 l /± inches. From W to 3 is the same as R 
to 2. 

Point 12 is 2 inches below the fashionable-waist line, or to 
style. Draw a light straight line from 11 to 12 and shape by a 
slightly reverse curved line from 11 to 12 as represented by the 
heavy line. (Do not raise more than l /% inch above the straight 
line at 25.) 

Shape the fish from 25 toward P, hollowing y s inch. 

Cut out the backpart, leaving a small portion of paper from 
A to H and lay it in the position shown on the upper part of the 
diagram. H is on the line which is squared upward from P; A 
is on the sweep-line forward of X and B touches the sweep-line 
backward of Y. When in this position place a weight on the 
backpart, mark point B and draw a straight line from B to 14. 
Mark lightly along the edge of the backpart from H to 4. 

This establishes 15. Shape the front-shoulder from 13 through 
15, hollowing slightly just backward of 13 and rounding off about 
•V4 inch below the outer back-shoulder point towards 16. 

From 13 to 16 is the same as from H to 4 on the backpart. 
Finish the scye from 16 to the front-scye notch as represented. 

Shape the gorge by a graceful curve from the center of the 
top of the backpart at A through 13 and on towards 18 as repre- 
sented, or higher or lower than 18, according to style. 

Shape the front above and below the end of the roll, accord- 
ing to style, and draw the rever crease-line from y 2 inch for- 
ward of 13 to the end of the roll. 

The buttons are placed V/ 2 inch from the front edge. 

The skirts for this coat are explained further on. 

Study this lesson very carefully and practice on full size 
drafts. Read the instructions over and over until you are familiar 

(15) 



with them. Fasten in your mind the several points and each suc- 
ceeding lesson will be more easily mastered as all points are cor- 
respondingly lettered and numbered and the same principle un- 
derlies the construction of all body-coats. Work with well sharp- 
ened chalk and on each draft endeavor to improve in graceful- 
ness and accuracy of all lines and curves. 

Send us an uncut draft by mail for examination and correc- 
tion, and proceed with the study of the next lesson. 



ONE AND THREE-BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK-COAT. 

(For a Stout, Stooping Shouldered Form.) 

DIAGRAM 2. 

'THE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as 
* follows, viz. : 42 breast, 40 waist, 8]4- half-back width, 10 back- 
scye depth, iy J / 2 natural waist, 19 fashionable waist, 12^2 blade, 
13^2 front-scye depth. T914 over-shoulder, 9^ back-waist, i8 T ^ 
arm-scye. 

To Draft. 

All the points excepting 19 and Z are obtained in the same 
manner as explained for Diagram 1. 

As the back-scye depth in this case is mure, and the front 
depth less than for a regular form, point 13 falls below the line 
which is squared across from A. 

The dotted line above J gives the natural half-back width ap- 
plicable to a regular form as explained for Diagram 1. The 
measurement for the half-back width in this case is more than 
for a regular form and is applied as follows : 

C to Z is J / 2 inch more than the half-back width, 844 inches. 

Square upward and downward from Z. This establishes 19. 

In the absence of a measure for the half-back width the line 
above J gives the natural width of back. It is regulated by a fixed 
proportion of the width from B to M. It is always safe, however, 
to take the width in each case in custom cutting because all forms 
are not proportionate, some requiring a wider, and some a nar- 
rower back than a proportionate form. It is well to know what 
the proportionate width is, and your observation of the shape of 
the form you are required to dress will aid you to determine the 
accuracy or inaccuracy of your measure when it differs greatly 
from that for a proportionate form. 

The front edge for the one-buttoner is represented by the 
broken line extending from the top of the rever through 2 and W. 

(16) 



« 




Diagram 2 



(>-) 



It should be ^4 mcn larger at the front edge opposite the top 
button than the three-buttoner. 

Establish the end of the roll ; shape the rever and fronts ac- 
cording to the prevailing style. 

Shape the fish on the waist-line as represented. It is about 
half-way between n and 12. For more corpulent forms it is 
placed as shown on Diagram 3. 

THREE-BUTTON CUTAWAY FROCK-COAT. 

( Good Form, Corpulent. ) 

Diagram 3. 

TTHE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as fol- 
lows, viz. : 42 breast, 45 waist, 8 half-back width, 9^4 back- 
scye depth, 17^ natural waist, 19^ fashionable waist, 12^2 blade. 
14% front-scye depth, 19^2 over-shoulder, 10 J4 back-waist, 18^ 
arm-scye. 

To Draft. 

Obtain all the points except 6, 7, 8, 19 and Z in the same 
manner as explained for Diagram 1. 

The dotted line above J gives the natural half-back width 
applicable to a regular form. The measurement for the half- 
back width in this case is more than as required for a regular 
form and an observation of the form justifies the variation. The 
measured width is therefore applied as follows: C to Z is / 2 
inch more than the measured width, Sy 2 inches in all. 

Square upward and downward from Z. This establishes 19. 

F to T and S to U is the back-waist, io}4 inches. 

F to T and U to V is one full half of the waist 22 Y / 2 inches. 

T to 6 is 2 inches, except when this amount would establish 
6 forward of U. In that case the backseam of the sidebody is 
shaped through U instead of through 6. There will then be 
nothing remaining to be taken out at the underarm seam be- 
tween 7 and 8. In this case U and 6 are in the same position 
and there is no surplus between U and 6, and there is nothing 
to be taken out as between 7 and 8 on the preceding diagrams. 

Square upward by the line from 11 to 12 towards Q, and 
make the V i/i6th inch wide for each inch that the waist is more 
than a waist 4 inches smaller than the breast. A waist 
4 inches less than 42 breast is 38. So that in this example, the 
waist is 7 inches larger than that for what is usually called a 
regular form, and the V is 7/i6ths wide. 

Shape from 11 to the Y as heretofore explained. Forward 

(18) 




Diagram 3. 



(19) 



of the V the waist seam is shaped the same amount above 12 
as the width of the V. 

Draw a light straight line through 2 and 3. This would 
represent the "front edge for a 3 or 4 button-up coat, which 
should be rounded off from near 3 as shown on Diagram 2, 
or to style. 

This coat is intended to be buttoned at the top button only, 
below which it is gradually cut away, passing the waist-line as 
much backward of 3 as the style must determine, as repre- 
sented by the heavy line. 

The width and shape of the rever above the end of the roll ; 
the length of the roll and run of the neck-gorge (13 through 18) 
may be as represented, but they are all matters which are gov- 
erned by the prevailing style. The service button is placed 
!]/> inch backward of the front edge. 



THE ARMSCYE. 

Diagram 4. 

A LL reference to the measure for the armscye has been pur- 
posely omitted in the explanations for the preceding dia- 
grams. In most cases the front-shoulder seam will be right for a 
plain shoulder when drafted as has been previously explained. 
The application then of the scye measure will not necessarily 
change the run of the shoulder seam, but will enable you to deter- 
mine in advance if the outer shoulder requires more than the 
usual amount of padding, etc. For a person who does not exer- 
cise the shoulder and arm muscles the scye will measure small, 
and in any case when the application of the measure would 
bring point 16 much lower than as represented, then the meas- 
ure should be sacrificed to good form and the outer 
shoulder points should be built by padding, etc. To apply the 
scye measure proceed as follows : 

Place the end of the tape-measure at the front-scye notch 
(point 2), and measure around to 4, following the broken line 
which is 34 inch from the edge of the scye. 

We will suppose that this measures 1134 inches. Then 
place 1 1 34 at 2 and following the broken line to 16 we find that 
the scye measure iGyl with i l / 2 inches added for six seams falls 
on the line of the shoulder seam as on the diagram from 15 
to 16. 

It will readily be seen that, had the measure taken on the 
form have been 15^, and had the shoulder seam been shaped 
to the measure, then point 16 would have been : y 4 inch below 

(20) 



the position it now occupies on the diagram, and the seam if 
shaped backward of 15 according- to the measure would not 
be in good form. In such case the seam must be given 
good form and any deficiency on the part of the wearer must 
be provided for by building up the outer shoulder points. 

Point 15 may fall above or below the line from 13 to C as 
the application of the over-shoulder measure will establish it. 




Diagram 4. 



(21) 



FROCK-COAT BACKS. 

Diagram 5. 

THE regular back is drafted as represented except when the 
material is a decided stripe or plaid. 

Points A and E are the same as on the preceding diagrams. 
To complete the back-skirt extend the line AE towards G and 
proceed as follows : 

A to E is Y\ inch more than the fashionable-waist length, 
and on to G is y 2 inch more than the full length. 

E to F is 3/2 inch. G to J is y 2 inch. 

F to H is /s breast, or to style. J to K is % inch more 
than F to H. 

Curve slightly from H to K and add 1 inch on each side of 
F and H, extending from x 4 inch above F and H as represented. 

Diagram 6. 

For stripes and plaids of prominent patterns, the back is first 
drafted in all respects the same as on Diagram 5 and as defined 
by points A, E, F, G, H, J and K. 

Continue the line AF to establish L. 

L to M is the same as J to K. 

Reshape the back-skirt from F and H to L and M. 

The top of the plait should be raised about y 2 inch above H, 
and the bottom y inch above M. 

When making, the center back must be well shrunk at the 
natural waist, and the sideseam stretched directly opposite, until 
the edge below F ranges with the line FJ. 



(22) 





<§H (0^ 



Diagram 5. 



P^H F^^= 



mo 



MK LJ 
Diagram 6. 



(23) 



WHOLE BACKS FOR FROCK-COATS. 

p\IAGRAMS 7, 8, 9 and 10 are for one style of whole back. 

Diagram 7 represents the back as cut from the material. It 
is drafted in the same manner, and points A, F, H, L and M are 
the same, as on Diagram 6. 

Diagram 8 represents the material opened out face upward 
and cut off on the right side from r 4 inch below H to within 1 
inch of the center and down to the bottom. 

Diagram 9 represents (the shaded part) another piece which 
is cut by the pattern of the back-skirt, with 1 inch added for the 
back tack. The top is cut T 4 inch above F and H. 

Diagram 10 shows the piece (Diagram 9) attached to the 
back (Diagram 8). It is seamed to the back from the button 
to the tack, passing under the left back-skirt. 

When the piece (Diagram 9) is to be stoated to the back 
instead of seamed, the top should be cut off on the line FH. 

Diagram 11 represents another style of whole back without 
the crosscut on the fashionable-waist line. The extra piece, which 
is shaded, extends from the right side 1 inch or more beyond 
the center, and is fastened at the button and by a tack at the 
center of back. One side-edge is left free. 

When marking on the material the center-of-back is laid 
to overlap the fold or crease-edge *4 Hlcn from the top to the 
bottom, or the width may be reduced T 4 inch from A to L and 
then the back-center laid even with the fold of the material. 

The material must be well shrunken on the fold at the natural 
waist, and stretched on the side directly opposite. 



(24) 




M L 



* 



miM\w r ~mk Pf^-^#i 



1 -. 



Diagram 7. Diagram S. Diagram 9. Diagram 10. Diagram 11. 



(25) 



THE CUTAWAY SKIRT. 

( Regular Form.) 

Diagram 12. 

^QUARE the lines AB and AC. 

Lay the sidebody to touch the line AB as represented and 
mark along the edge of the pattern from A to D. 

Lay the forepart with the lower point of the sideseam at D, 
and the fashionable-waist line directly over the line AB. Mark- 
along the edge of the pattern from D to F. 

F to G is y 2 inch. E is half-way from A to E. 

Shape the waist seam from E by a slightly curved line to G 
as represented. 

A to C is 9 inches for a form of average height, or half the 
length from the collar-seam to the natural waist. 

When the seat is 5 inches larger than the waist, C to J is 2 Y / 2 
inches (the seat taken close as for trousers). Take for example 
a 32 waist and 37 seat. The difference is 5 inches, and C to J is 
2y 2 inches. When the difference is more than 5 inches, then 
from C to J is % mcn more than 2J/2 inches for each inch that 
the difference is more than 5 inches. When the difference is 
less than 5 inches proceed as is explained for the next diagram. 

The distance from C to J as above stated is for skirts that 
are to be French pressed. When they are to be plain pressed 
make C to J ^^inch less. 

Draw a straight line from A through the unlettered point 
Yz inch forward of J. 

A to R is 24 inches. R to T is 1 inch. 

Shape the back crease-edge by a curved line from A through 
I towards T. 

A to L is *4 mc b more than the length of the back-skirt. 

Lay the forepart in close position with the skirt, F touching 
G, and shape the front as represented, or to style. 

Add 1 inch to the back crease-edge for the plait. 

Two styles are represented on the diagram. 



(26) 




Diagram 12. 



(27) 



THE CUTAWAY SKIRT. 

(Corpulent Form.) 

Diagram 13. 

CQUARE the lines AB and AC. 

Lay the sidebody to touch the line AB as represented and 
mark along the edge of the pattern from A to D. 

Lay the forepart with the lower point of the sideseam at D 
and the fashionable waist line directly over the line AB. Mark 
along the edge of the pattern from D to the dart at H. and 
continue the line as to the small disk. 

From the small disk to G is y 2 inch. 

E is half-way from A to F. 

Shape the waist-seam from E by a slightly curved line to G 
ah represented. 

A to C is 9 inches for a form of average height, or half the 
length from the collar-seam to the natural waist. 

C to K is 2 T / 2 inches. 

K to J is as many quarters of an inch as the difference be- 
tween the waist and seat is less than 5 inches. 

For example: Take a form of 40 waist and 42 seat (the seat 
taken close as for trousers). The difference (2 inches) is 3 
inches less than 5 inches. Therefore from K to J is V4 inch. 

Draw a straight line from A through the unlettered point 
]A inch forward of J. 

A to R is 24 inches. R to T is T 2 inch. 

Shape the back crease edge by a curved line from A through 
J towards T. 

A to L is T 4 inch more than the length of the back-skirt. 

Lay the forepart in closed position with the skirt, F touching 
G, and shape the front as represented, or to style. 

Add t inch to the back crease-edge for the plait. 



(28) 




•^p 



Diagram 1; 



(29) 



DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK COAT. 

i Erect Form.) 

Diagram 14. 

HTHE measures used are as follows: 38 breast, 34 waist, 7% 
■ half-back width, 9 back-scye depth, iy l / 2 natural waist, 19% 
fashionable waist, 1 1 1 /\ blade, 13 front-scye depth, 18^4 over- 
shoulder, 8 l 4 back-waist. 17 arm-scye. 

To Draft. 

Square the lines AE and A 19. 

Place the end of the tape-measure x /\ inch below A and mark 
the back-scye depth 9 at B, the natural waist iy l / 2 at D, the 
fashionable waist 19*4 at E and the full length as explained for 
Diagram 5. 

B to C is one-half of the scye depth, 4^ inches. Square 
across from B, C, D and E and at the full length. 

D to F is ]/ 2 inch. Connect A and F and shape the center- 
back from A to F as represented. Square downward from F. 

B to K is the blade, n}4 inches. 

K to M is i l / 2 inch. L is half way from K to M. 

K to P is \% inch more than 1/6 breast, \V% inches. 

B to Q is one full half of the breast, 19 inches. Q to R is 2^4 
inches. 

I is half way from B to M. I to J is 1% inch. Square up- 
ward J, M and P, and downward from K and M. (The line above 
J gives the natural half-back width.) 

C to Z is y 2 inch more than the measured half-back width, 7% 
inches in all. Square upward and downward from Z to estab- 
lish 19. 

A to G is 1/6 breast, 3^ inches. G to H is 1/24 breast, full 
3 , inch. Connect H and P. Connect A and M to establish 5. 

Shape the back-scye from 4 to 5 and as represented by the 
broken line from 5 to K. 

Establish the front-scye notch i l / 2 inch above M and reshape 
the scye from }i inch forward of 5 as shown by the solid line. 
The bottom of the scye is *4 incn below the breast-line. 

F to T is yi breast, 2 3^ inches, or to style. 

Connect 19 and the center-back at the fashionable waist line 
to establish 20 and shape the side-back as represented. 

X is half-way from I to M. Square downward from N to 
establish 1. 

F to T and S to U is the back-waist 8^4 inches (or, S to U 
is the back-waist, less the width of the back from F to T). 

(30) 



F to T and U to V is on 
V to W is 2J/2 inches. 

Shape the center-of-front 

T to 6 is 2 inches. From 
side of i) is the same as U to 

Shape the sidebody from 
inch forward of 20 and thron 
inch more than from 20 to 
backpart. 

Shape the underarm seam 
sented. 



e full half of the waist, 17 inches. 

through R and W as represented. 
7 to 8 (distributed equally on each 

6, )/\ inch for this draft. 

Y§ inch forward of 5, passing %. 
gh 6 and make the length to 9 % 

the fashionable-waist line on the 

from N through 7 and 8 as repre- 




Point 10 is % inch above the fashionable-waist line, and 
from the same line to 12 is 1 inch. Connect 11 and 12 by a light 
straight line. 

The fish is shaped from 25 towards P. It is y% inch wide 
at the natural waist. 

L to X is >4 inch more than the front-scye depth, 13^ 
inches. 

L to Y is Y_\ inch more than the over-shoulder, 19 inches. 
Connect L and X to establish 14. 

Pivot at L and sweep forward from X. Pivot at 14 and 
sweep backward from Y. 

X to 17 is *4 breast, \ l / 2 inches. Square forward from 17. 

Cut out the backpart and lay it in the position shown on the 
upper part of the diagram. Point H is on the line which is 
squared upward from P, A is on the sweep-line from X, and B 
on the sweep-line from Y. 

Place a weight on the backpart ; mark along the back-shoul- 
der seam and shape the gorge as represented, or to style. This 
establishes 13. 

Connect 14 and B to establish 15. Remove the pattern and 
shape the shoulder from 13 through 15, rounding off about Y\ 
inch to 16 and finish the scye from 16 to the scye notch. 

Pivot at the neck and center-of-front, which in this case is at 
22, and sweep forward and backward from 12. Shape the waist 
seam by a graceful reverse curve from 11 to 12 as represented. 

From 12 to 24 is i l / 2 inch. From 12 to 18 is 2 l / 2 inches. R to 
23 is 4 inches, or to style. Shape the lapel seam above 24 as 
represented. 

Connect 23 and 18, establish the end of the roll and draw the 
crease line towards a point ?4 inch forward of 13. 

Establish 19 and 20 according to style and square forward by 
the crease-line from both points. From the crease-line to 21 
is the same as to 19 and from the same line to 22 is the same 
as to 20. 

The light line from 21 to the end of the roll and on to 18 
shows the approximate run of the front of the lapel when it is 
closed to the forepart. 

From 24 to 26 is the same as 12 to 18. Shape from 21 to 26 
passing the same amount forward of the end of the roll as drawn, 
as is taken out between the lapel and forepart below R and 
opposite the end of the roll. 

Pivot at 22 and sweep backward from the eye of each button- 
hole and establish the buttons -;4 inches less from the line R to 
12 than the width of the lapel. (See diagram 47.) 

(32) 



NOTES. 

T^HE width of the top of the backpart may be made- more or 
less than as herein explained for any coat or vest. This 
width is entirely a matter of taste or style. 

The back shoulder-seam may be drawn from H to P, Q or R, 
according to style. 

Sidebodies are cut j4 inch shorter, from N to 10 than the 
forepart from N to it. The sidebody should be stretched this 
l / 4 inch opposite 7. 

Collars should go on full at the side of the neck opposite 
the shoulder seam and short from the crease-line to the front. 
The gorge should be stretched at the side of the neck from the 
crease-line to the front-shoulder seam, except for those who 
carry the head well forward. 

Study repeatedly the article "How to Measure." 

The back-scye should be drawn in y 2 inch below Z and the 
under-sleeve fulled on the same amount. 

The front-scye should be stretched just below 16. 

For round-shouldered forms the back-shoulder may be cut 
a trifle longer from H to 4 than the front shoulder from 13 to 
16 and the extra length fulled on to the front shoulder. 

The backpart should be fulled on to the sidebody a very little 
over the blades between 5 and 20. 

The width of the backpart from F to T may be made any 
style width, and the side-back seam may be shaped with more 
or less curve than as shown on any of the diagrams for coats. 

For a form with full round breast, the front-scye should be 
drawn in a trine at the front-scye notch. 

For a form having a very long neck make the width of the 
stand of the collar \ l / 2 inch, and for one with very short neck 
t inch wide. 

(See page 107.) 

(35) 



DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK-COAT. 

(Corpulent Form.) 

Diagram 15. 

THE measures used are: 46 breast, 45 waist, 8^$ half-back 
* width, 10*4 back-scye depth, ijVa natural waist, 19^4 fashionable 
waist, 13^2 blade, 15^ front-scye depth, 20-;4 over-shoulder, ii*4 
back-waist, 19^2 arm-scye. 

To Draft. 

Obtain all the points excepting 1, 2, 12, 21, 22, 24 and O in 
the same manner as explained for Diagram 14. 
F to T and S to U is the back-waist as before. 
T to 6 is 2 inches, except when this amount would establish 

6 forward of U. Then the backseam of the sidebody is shaped 
through U instead of through 6, and nothing is taken out on the 
waist-line below N. 

In this case, as point 6 is backward of U, viz., y$ inch, from 

7 to 8, is therefore the same as U to 6, viz., 34 inch. 

Square downward from R. 

Point 12 is 2 inches below r the fashionable waist line. Con- 
nect 11 and 12 and square upward by this line to Q. 

Make the dart 1/16 inch w r ide for each inch that the waist is 
more than a waist 4 inches smaller than the breast. In this case 
the waist is 3 inches more than 4 inches smaller than the breast, 
and the dart is 3/16 inch wide. 

Pivot at R and sw r eep downward from B. 

Take the length from R to B, and, pivoting at X make a 
cross-sweep to establish O. 

Pivot at O and sweep from R to X to establish 2. 

Shape the center-of-front through 2 and W as represented. 
For forms of excessive corpulency, this line will be a reverse 
curve passing a trifle forward of R. For forms less corpulent it 
should pass by a uniform curve from 2 through R to YV. 

Pivot at 2; sweep forward from 1 and shape from 1 to 11 as 
represented. 

Pivot at W and sweep forward from 18. From 18 to 24 is 
\Y\ inch. 

Connect 21 and 24 and shape the lapel-seam edge by a 
slightly reversed curved line as represented. 

Pivot at 24 and sweep forward from 21. 

The width and shape of the lapel above 24 is governed by 

(34) 



style. On the diagram it is 2^4 inches wide at the top, 3^ 
inches opposite R and 2.)/ 2 inches at the bottom. 

Lay the lapel in closed position at the top with the forepart as 
represented in broken lines and draw the lapel crease-line from 
y 2 inch forward of 13 to the end of the roll. This establishes 22. 

The shape of the lapel may also be made to conform with the 
current style by obtaining all the style points as explained for the 
preceding diagram. 




Diagram 15. 



(35) 



HIGH PADDED SHOULDERS. 

f\ N ALL the diagrams contained in this work, unless expressly 
^ stated otherwise, the shoulders are drafted to the measures 
as taken over the vest. This gives a plain shoulder which requires 
but little padding, only sufficient to give good form. When for 
any reason a high padded shoulder is required proceed as fol- 
lows: 

Refer to Diagram 16 and observe that this shoulder is first 
drafted plain, as represented by the heavy lines. A line is then 
drawn across as from 18 to 19, and a tracing is made of the part 
above the line, is cut out and laid on the draft. Pivot this at 
18 and swing the scye end upward as much as required as rep- 
resented by the part which is shaded. Then mark around it. 
The top of the back-shoulder may be made wider (H to 4. 
Diagram 15) if style demands, and the width of the front- 
shoulder is increased to the same width. 

SINGLE-BREASTED STRAIGHT FRONT FROCK-COAT. 

Diagram 16. 

A LL the points are obtained in the same manner as explained 
for Diagram 1. 
The forepart only is shown, the front of which is continued 
straight below 3 to the waist-seam. 

SINGLE-BREASTED CLERICAL FROCK-COAT. 

Diagram 17. 

A LL the points on the body of the forepart excepting 2, 3, 4, 5 
and 6 are obtained in the same manner as explained for Dia- 
gram 1. 

Points 17 and 2 are obtained in the same manner as explained 
for Diagram 15. 

The line 2, R, W is the center-of-front and the button-line. 

The end of the gorge at 3 is obtained by the application of 
the measures for half-size of neck and depth-of-gorge. The 
manner in which these two measures are taken are explained 
further on. (See "How to Measure, Clerical Coats, etc.") These 
two measures are applied to the draft in the following manner : 

Place the width of the top of the backpart at 13 and extend 
the tape-measure to W. Hold it at- \Y ; release it from 13 and 
extend it upward on the center-of-front. Make a short sweep 
at x / 2 inch above the measure for depth-of-gorge. Place the 
width of the top of the backpart again at 13 and apply the meas- 

(36) 




Diagram 16 



Diagram 1' 



137) 



ure for half-size of neck and }i inch more along the line of the 
gorge to a point on the first sweep-line as at 3. The intersection 
of the two measures establishes 3. 

From 3 to 4, R to 5 and \Y to 6 are each y A inch. 

The line 4, 5, 6, is the edge of the left forepart. Add ^4 inch 
forward of this for the edge of the right forepart. 

The Collar. Draw the crease-line from 2 through 13 as rep- 
resented. 

From 2 to 3 is the same as the neck-gorge (3 to 13 and top of 
backpart, A to H). From 3 to 4 is 1% inch. From 3 to 5 is the 
fashionable width. Shape as represented. 

For a standing or military collar see Diagram 29. 

FROCK-COAT SKIRT. 

(Regular Form.) 
Diagram 18. 
HpHIS skirt will hang plain at the sides. 

To Draft. 

Square the lines AB and AC. 

Lay the sidebody as represented and mark by it from A to D. 

Lay the forepart as represented, with the fashionable waist 
line directly over the line AB. Mark along the edge of the 
pattern from D to the lapel-seam edge at F. 

Lay the lapel as represented, overlapping the forepart y 2 
inch as from F to E. Mark by it from F to G. 

Square downward from G by the fashionable waist line. 

A to C is 9 inches. 

When the seat is 5 inches larger than the waist, C to J is 
2y 2 inches (the seat taken close, as for trousers). For example: 
Take a form of 36 waist and 41 seat. The difference is 5 inches. 
One-half of 5 is 2y 2 and this is the distance from C to J. This 
is for skirts that are to be French pressed. When plain-pressed 
then C to J is ^.inch less than as above stated. 

Draw a straight line from A )/ 2 inch forward of J. 

A to R is 24 inches. R to T is 1 inch. 

Shape the crease-edge by a curved line from A through J 
towards T. 

A to L is 14 inch more than the length of the back-skirt. 

G to M is the same as A to L. 

Reduce the top round on the waist-seam y mcn below the 
line of the forepart forward of D as represented. 

Add 1 inch backward of A J and L for the plait. 

(38) 




T\*.<.R« 



Diagram 18. 



(39) 



FROCK-COAT SKIRT. 

(Corpulent Form.) 
Diagram 19. 
THIS skirt will hang plain at the sides. 

To Draft. 

Square the lines AB and AC. 

Lay the pattern of the sidebody as represented and mark by 
it from A to D. 

Lay the pattern of the forepart as represented, with the 
fashionable waist line directly over the line A B. Mark along 
the edge of the pattern from D to the dart at H, make a mark 
at H. 

Pivot at the top of the dart and swing the pattern of the fore- 
part until the front edge of the dart is at H. Then mark from 
H to the lapel seam edge at F. 

Lay the pattern of the lapel as represented, overlapping the 
forepart y 2 inch as from F to E. Mark by it from F to G. 

Square downward from G by the line AB. 

A to C is 9 inches. 

When the seat is less than 5 inches larger than the waist, 
proceed as follows : 

C to K is 2]/ 2 inches. K to J is as many quarters of an inch 
as the difference between the waist and seat is less than 5 inches. 
For example : Take a form of 42 waist and 45 seat (the seat 
taken close as for trousers). The difference, 3 inches, is 2 inches 
less than 5. Therefore from K to J is 2 quarters, or l / 2 inch. 

Draw a straight line from A V 2 inch forward of J. 

A to R is 24 inches. R to T is l /> inch. 

Shape the crease-edge by a curved line from A through J 
on a line which if extended would pass through T. 

A to L is % inch more than the length of the back-skirt. 

G to M is the same as A to L. 

Add 1 inch backward of A J and L for the plait as repre- 
sented. 



r 4 o) 




T^Ri 



Diagram 19. 



(41) 



FROCK-COAT SKIRT. 

(Extra Drapery.) 

Diagram 20. 

COR a skirt with more drapery, or less plain at the sides than as 
*^ on Diagrams 18 and 19, proceed as follows : 

Square the lines A B and A C. 

Lay the sidebody as represented and mark along the lower 
edge from A to D. 

Lay the forepart as represented, with the fashionable waist 
directly over the line A B. Mark along the lower edge of the 
pattern from D to the lapel-seam which is at F. 

Lay the lapel as represented, overlapping the forepart y 2 
inch, and mark from F to G. 

Square downward from G by the line A B. 

I is half-way from A to G. I to X is V 2 inch, more or less. 

Shape the waist-seam from A through X to G as repre- 
sented. 

A to C is 9 inches. 

When the seat is 5 inches larger than the waist, C to J is 
2^ inches (the seat taken close as for trousers). To this 2^2 
inches must be added whatever is taken off at the waist-seam 
fiom I to X. 

For example : Take a form of 33 waist and 39 seat. The 
seat is 6 inches larger than the waist and in such case C to J 
is 2]/ 2 inches and : 4 inch more for each inch that the difference 
between the waist and seat is more than 5 inches, plus the 
quantity between I and X, y 2 inch. This gives 3^4 inches in 
all from C to J in this case (2^ plus y and ]/ 2 equals ^Vx)- 

G to P is the same as G to X. P is as much forward of the 
line G M as X is below I. Shape the front from G through P. 

Draw a straight line from A x / 2 inch forward of J. A to R 
is 24 inches. R to T is 1 inch. Shape the back crease-edge 
from A by a curved line through J towards T. 

A to L is 14 inch more than the length of the back-skirt. 
G to N is the same as A to L. 

Add 1 inch for the plait backward of A, J and L. 

When the seat is less than 5 inches larger than the waist, 
proceed as above explained with the following exceptions, viz : 

R to T is / 2 inch. C to J is 2 l / 2 inches plus the amount 
between I and X, minus as many quarters of an inch as the 
difference is less than 5 inches. For example : Take a form 
42 waist and 43 seat (the seat taken close as for trousers). 
The difference in that case is 4 inches less than 5. Therefore 

(42) 



C to J is 2.y 2 inches plus the quantity between I and X, >4 
inch, which gives 3 inches, minus 4 fourths or 1 inch, which 
o-ives 2 inches in all. . 

When more drapery at the sides is desired increase the 
amount to be taken from the waist-seam from I to X, and pro- 
ceed in all respects as above explained. 




Diagram 20. 

(43) 



T 



DRESS-COAT. 

( Regular Form.) 

Diagram 21. 

HE measures used for this diagram are as follows, viz.: 37 
breast, 33 waist, 7% half-back width, g% back-scye depth, 
16 V\ natural waist, i8>< fashionable waist, 11 34 blade, 12^5 front- 
scve depth, 17^6 over-shoulder, 8 back-waist, 16^4 arm-scye. 

To Draft, 

All the points on the back part, except O, all on the sidebody 
and forepart except 2, 12, i8 ? 21, R and W are obtained in the 
same manner as explained for Diagram 14. 

O and 2 are obtained as explained for Diagram 15. 

Point 12 is 2 inches below the fashionable waist-line, or to 
style. 

Point 18 is 1 inch below 2, or to style. 

Q to R is 2}4 inches when the lapel-seam terminates at R, 
and 234 inches when it extends to the gorge. 

V to W is 1 inch. The coat is not to button, the front edges 
of the lapels just meeting at the waist. 

The position of the lapel-seam at the breast-line is governed 
wholly by style-effect desired. For a form having a small 
waist it may be shaped from W by a graceful curve passing 
somewhat backward of R and 2. For a corpulent form it may be 
shaped from W forward of R towards 2. 

When the foreparts are to be silk-^aced the lapel-seam 
should not extend above the lapel crease-line. Otherwise it may 
be continued to 18 if so desired. 

Draw a straight line from R 1 inch forward of W for the 
lapel-seam edge. 

R to 21 is the same as R to 12 and x / 2 inch less than the width 
of the skirt strap (F to G, Diagram 22). 

The lapel is 2^4 inches wide opposite 12, 3 inches opposite R 
and 2)A inches at the top, all of which is, however, governed by 
taste or style. 

Establish the lower buttonhole opposite the waist-seam and 
those above as represented. 

Draw the lapel-crease-line from the end of the roll towards 
a point Y\ inch forward of 13 to establish 22. 

The Collar. Draw the crease-line from 22, passing l / 2 inch 
forward of 13, and shape the seam-edge from 18 towards 24, 
which is 1% inch below the collar-crease-line. 

(44) 



to i8)° m ^ t0 24 iS the Same aS the gorge < A to H a » d '3 
Square upward from 24 by the line 22 to 23 to establish 23 
From 23 to 25 1S the fashionable width. Shape as represented' 
For the skirt for this body see Diagram 22 
(On Diagrams 23 and 24 is shown another style of Dress 




Diagram 21, 

(45) 



DRESS-COAT SKIRT. 

Diagram 22. 

SQUARE the lines AB and AC. 

Lay the sidebody as represented and mark by it from A to D. 

Lay the forepart as represented, with the fashionable waist 
line directly over the line A B, and mark by it from D to E. 

E to F is 1 inch. I is half-way between A and E. Shape 
from I to F as represented. 

Lay the forepart in closed position with the skirt (E and F) 
and mark from F towards G in line with the front of the fore- 
part. 

F to H is 1/3 of the width from F to A. F to G and H to K 
are each 1}^ inch. 

A to C is 9 inches. 

When the seat is 5 inches larger than the waist, C to J is 
l / 2 inch less than one-half of the difference between the waist 
and seat (the seat taken close as for trousers). 

For example : Take a form of 33 waist and 38 seat. The 
difference is 5 inches, and ]/ 2 inch less than one-half of this 
is 2 inches. So that, in this case, C to J is 2 inches. 

Add to this 2 inches % inch more for each inch that the 
difference between the waist and seat is more than 5 inches, 
and deduct from 2 inches [ 4 inch for each inch that the differ- 
ence is less than 5 inches. 

Draw a straight line from A l / 2 inch forward of J. 

A to R is 24 inches. R to T is ^4 inch. Shape the back 
edge by a curved line from A through J towards T. 

A to L is )/\ inch more than the length of the back-skirt. 

Sweep forward from L, pivoting at A. 

L to M is the same as F to H, or to style. 

Draw an outward curved line from H to M and shape the 
front as represented. 

Add 1 inch for the plait backward of A J and L as repre- 
sented. 



(46) 




I R 



Diagram 22. 



(47) 



DRESS-COAT. 

Diagram 23. 

THE measures used for the accompanying- diagram are as fol- 
lows, viz. : 40 breast, 42 waist, 9 back-scye depth, 17 natural 
waist, 18 fashionable waist, jy 2 half-back width, 12 blade, I3>4 
front-scye depth, 18 over-shoulder, 934 back waist, iy l /g arm-scye. 

To Draft, 

Square the lines A E and A 19. 

Obtain the lengths to B, C D and E, also the full-length 
as heretofore explained, and square forward from each. 

All the points on the backpart except T are found in the 
same manner as heretofore explained. F to T is % inch less 
than T /g breast. 

Obtain all the points on the breast-line except N and R 
as heretofore explained. Q to R is 2-/4 inches. N is half-wax 
from J to K. Square downward from N, K and R. Square 
upward from M and P. 

L to X is -V 4 inch more than the front-scye depth, and on 
to Y is Y\ inch more than the over-shoulder. Sw r eep forward 
from X, pivoting at L and backward from Y, pivoting at 14. 

X to 17 is V4 breast. Square forward from 17. 

Finish the back-skirt as explained for Diagram 5, cut out 
the backpart and lay it in the position shown on the upper 
part of the diagram. Point H is on the line which is squared 
upward from P, A is on the sweep line from X and B on the 
sweep-line from Y. 

Place a w r eight on the back, mark lightly along the back 
shoulder seam, mark point B and shape the gorge towards 24. 
This establishes 13. 

Draw a straight line from B to 14. This establishes 15. 

Shape the front-shoulder seam of the forepart from 16, which 
is about Y\ inch below the outer shoulder point (4) on the 
backpart, through 15 and 2, which is at the hollow of the back 
shoulder seam wdiere the line from L to Y crosses it, to 3. 
This formation should govern in the formation of all front 
shoulder seams when any hollow is given to the back-shoulder 

(48) 




Diagram 2: 



(49) 



seam as in this case. Nothing must be lost on the line from L 
to Y at 2. This establishes 3 a trifle, about % inch, above 13. 

S to U is the back-waist less the width of the backpart from 
F to T. 

F to T and U to V is a full half of the waist, 21 inches. V 
to W is 3 inches. 

T to 6 is 2 inches. In this case U and 6 are at the same place 
and there is therefore nothing to be taken out at point 1. Shape 
the sidebody from y§ inch forward of 5, passing ]/x inch forward 
of 20 through 6 toward 9 and the front edge from N through 1, as 
represented. 

From 20 to 9 is 34 mcn niore than from 20 to the fashionable 
waist line on the sideseam of the backpart. Point 10 is *4 mcn 
above the fashionable waist line. 

Point 12 is 3 inches below the fashionable waist line. Draw a 
straight line from 11 through 12, and for corpulent forms, square 
upward from this line towards Q. (For forms not corpulent 
omit the dart on the waist seam and substitute the fish as ex- 
plained for Diagram 21.) 

Make the dart 1/16 inch wide for each inch that the waist 
is more than a waist 4 inches smaller than the breast, as for exam- 
ple : A waist 4 inches smaller than this breast of 40 inches is 36 
inches. As the waist in this case is 42 inches it is 6 inches 
larger than 36, and the dart is therefore 6/16 inch wide. 

From the dart to 8 is the same as the height of the dart, and 
it is as much above the line from 11 through 12 as the width 
of the dart. Extend the waist-seam forward of the dart through 
8 as represented. 

Shape the front edge from the waist-line to the bottom and 
draw a straight line from the end of the roll towards a point Y\ 
inch forward of 13. Draw another line between the same points, 
rounding out 34 mcn forward of the straight line opposite R. 

Establish 18 and 23 according to style, and shape the lapel 
from the end of the roll to 18 and 23. 

Square forward by the crease-line from 18 and 23. From the 
crease-line to 24 is the same as to 23, and from the crease-line 
to 25 is the same as to 18. Shape the gorge from 13 to 24 and 
the lapel from 24 to 25 and from 25 to the end of the roll as 
represented by the chain-stitch lines. 

(50) 



Make a tracing- of the part of the lapel above the breast- 
line and forward of the crease-line below 22. Cut this out, lay 
it on top of the draft, and, pivoting it at the intersection of the 
breast and crease lines, swing the upper part forward 2 inches, 
as from 22 to 26. Mark around the piece from the breast-line to 
26, across the top and from there to the end of the roll as repre- 
sented. 

Cut out the dart adding a seam forward of 22 and backward 
of 26 as represented. 

The collar should be drafted as soon as the gorge has been 
shaped. Extend the crease-line above 22, make the stand i l /% 
inch wide and the seam-edge the same as the neck (A to H and 
3 to 24). Make the back end of the stand square with the 
crease-line and the end of the leaf a trifle backward of a line 
square from the crease-line. The leaf is i]/ 2 inch wide at the back 
and i]4 inch at the front. 

From 21 to O is one-third of the distance from 21 to 9. 

For the skirt for this body see Diagram 24. 



(50 



DRESS-COAT SKIRT. 
Diagram 24. 

"PHIS skirt is only applicable to Dress-Coat Bodies drafted as 

shown on Diagram 23. 

The lower part of the forepart and sidebody are shown and 
the line from 9 to B represents the fashionable waist line. This 
is the same line as is squared forward from E on Diagram 23. 

Draw another line 1^ inch below the fashionable waist line 
and parallel with it as the line A Z. 

From 21 to o is 1/3 of the distance from 21 to 9. 

From 11 to I is 1/6 waist. 

From O to A is the same as from O to 11, 10 and 9 less the 
width of the dart. 

Connect A and I and square downward by this line from A. 

A to C is 9 inches. Sqare backward from C. 

C to J is 2 inches when the seat is 5 inches larger than the 
waist, 34 i ncn l ess than 2 inches for each inch that the differ- 
ence between the seat and waist is less than 5 inches, and 34 i ncn 
more than 2 inches for each inch that the difference is more than 
5 inches. 

Draw a straight line from A through the unlettered .point 
x / 2 inch forward of J. 

A to R is 24 inches. 

R to T is y 2 inch. 

Shape the crease-edge from A. rounding through J and con- 
tinuing on through T. 

A to L is 34 i ncn more than the back-skirt. 

Pivot at A and sweep forward from L. 

L to M is 1 inch more than 1/3 breast. 

Connect M and O as a guide and shape as represented. 

Add 1 inch backward of A J L for the plait as represented. 



to) 




Diagram 24. 



(53) 



SINGLE-BREASTED SACK-COAT. 

Diagram 25. 

'THE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as fol- 
lows : 36 breast, 32 waist, 37 seat, 7 half-back width, 8 l / 2 back- 
scye depth, i6 l / 2 natural waist, 245^ seat-line, 29 length, 11 
blade, I2}i front-scye depth, 17 over-shoulder, 7^ back-waist, 
16^2 arm-scye. 

To Draft. 

Square the lines A E and A 19. 

Place the end of the tape-measure ]/\ inch below A, and 
mark the back-scye depth at B, the natural waist at C, the seat- 
line at D, and V4 inch more than the length at E. 

B to 1 is one-half of the back-scye depth. Square forward 
from each of these points. 

C to F is y 2 inch. Connect A and F and shape the center-of- 
back from A through F to % inch forward of E as represented. 

B to K is the blade. K to M is i l / 2 inch. L is half-way 
between K and M. 

K to P is 134 inch more than 1/6 breast. B to Q is a full 
half of the breast. Q to R is 2 x / 2 inches. 

R to 2 is 1% inch when the edge is stitched and 1 inch when 
it is bound. 

Square downward from K to establish S. Square upward 
from M and P. 

I is half-way from B to M. I to J is 1% inch. 

To obtain the natural half-back width square upward from J. 

From 1 to Z is / 2 inch more than the fashionable or meas- 
ured half-back width. Square upward and downward from Z. 
(In this case the natural and measured widths are the same.) 

A to G is 1/6 breast. G to FI is 1/24 breast. Connect FT and 
P. 

Shape the scye as represented, from 4 to the front-scye notch, 
which is at the unlettered point i l / 2 inch above M. Connect 1 
and M to establish 5. 

Square downward from I to establish T. 

(54) 




Diagram 25. 



(55) 



E to 6 is Yx inch more than C to T. Shape the side-back as 
represented below 5 through T to 6. 

Obtain points X, Y, 14, 17, and shape the front-shoulder in 
the same manner as explained for Diagram 23. 

F to T and S to U is the back-waist. F to T and U to V is 
a full half of the waist. V to W is 234 inches. W to 3 is the 
same as R to 2. 

Square downward from U to establish 7. 

When the waist is 5 or more inches smaller than the seat, 
from 7 to 8 is 3 inches. (See Diagram 30 for corpulent forms.) 

The quantity between T and U represents a surplus through 
that part (3 inches for this draft), more than the measurement 
for the back-waist. As much of this surplus may be taken out 
between T and 9 and in the fish under the arm as required or 
according to style. On the diagram T to 9 is 1% inch, and the 
fish is y 2 inch wide. K to N is l / 2 inch. 

Shape the sideseam from 5 about l /% inch forward of J 
through 9 and 8, and the fish as represented. In case the fish is 
not required, shape the side seam as is explained for Diagram 2J. 

From 9 to 10 is the same as T to 6. Shape the bottom from 
10 towards a point l / 2 inch, more or less, below 21, according to 
style. 

Apply the arm-scye as explained for Diagram 4. 

Shape the front above and below the end of the roll all accord- 
ing to style, and draw the crease-line from l / 2 inch forward of 
13 to the end of the roll. This establishes 22. 

The buttons are placed i l / 2 inch from the front edge. 

M to 20 is ]/\ breast. Square downward from 20 to locate 
the front of the pocket mouth. 

The collar is drafted in the same manner as explained for 
Diagram 30. 



(56) 



SINGLE-BREASTED SACK-COAT. 

Diagram 26. 

A XOTHER style of 3 button sack-coat is shown on this dia- 
gram. The back part and all the points on the forepart ex- 
cepting 18, 19, 20, 24, 25 and 26 are obtained in the same manner 
as explained for Diagram 25. 

The broken line from 2 through 3 represents the front edge 
when the fronts close with three buttons all placed 1^2 inch 
from the front edge. In this case the fronts are slightly cut- 
away below the top button, and for this reason the buttons are 
placed as much less than 1^/2 inch from the edge, as the front 
has been shaped inside the line from 2 through 3. 

Draw the rever crease-line from )A inch forward of 13 to the 
end of the roll, which must be established according to style. 

As the height of the gorge, length of collar and shape of the 
rever are governed by style, which is constantly changing from 

(57) 



season to season, these matters can easily be determined by pro- 
ceeding in the following manner : Having first established the 
front edge below the top button and the height of the top button 
on or above or below the breast-line, in conformity with a care- 
ful view of the fashion-plate, then draw the crease-line from the 
end of the roll towards a point x / 2 inch forward of the front- 
shoulder point, 13. 

Xext establish the point of the rever, 18, its height in relation 
to the breast-line and neck. On the fashion-plate from which 
this style was selected the point of the rever appears to be a 
little more than half-way from the breast-line to the neck, and 
the height is so established on the draft. (The neck-height is 
found by drawing a light line parallel with the breast-line as 
from point 18 on Diagram 25, or where the line which is squared 
forward from 17 engages the center-of- front. It is shown on this 
diagram by a dotted line lettered G. The dotted line lettered H 
i^ half-way between the neck-line and breast-line.) 

Having established the height of point 18, consult the fashion- 
plate and determine the width of the rever. It appears to be a 
trifle less than half the width of the front from the crease-line to 
the front-of-scye, and is so established on the draft. 

Next establish point 23 in its relation to point 18, and square 
across from 18 and 2$ by the crease-line. 

From the crease-line to 24 is the same as to 23, and from the 
crease-line to 25 is the same as to 18. 

Now reshape the gorge to 24 and the rever from 24 to 25 and 
to the end of the roll (as represented by a chain-stitch line). 

Draft the collar as represented, and as has been repeatedly 
explained. 

Draw a straight line from O about 1 inch backward of 24 
as to 20. 

Place a piece of paper underneath the draft and make a 
tracing of the part from Q to 20, 24, 25, and to the end of the 
roll. Mark point Q on the traced piece and cut the piece out. 

Now, holding the piece at Q, swing the upper part forward 
[ inch as from 20 to 26, and mark around it. This gives the 
heavy lines forward of 26. Shape from the point of the rever 
to the end of the roll, connect 26 and Q, and cut out the dart, 
adding a seam's width forward of 20 and backward of 26. 

(58) 




Diagram 26 



(59) 



LONG ROLL SACK-COAT. 

Diagram 27. 

a MOTHER style of sack-coat is shown on this diagram. It is 
** to button at one button only, which is at the end of the roll, 
and for this reason the matter of size in front is only important at 
the point where the coat buttons. The front edge is therefore 
kept on the line below 3. All above the end of the roll is a 
matter of style which can easily be obtained in the following- 
manner : 

For a long-roll coat, draw a light straight line from % inch 
forward of 13 to the end of the roll, and another one between 
the same points, but rounding forward of the straight line ^2 inch 
at the breast-line. 

Establish 18 and 23, 24 and 25 in the same manner as ex- 
plained for the preceding diagram. Draft and cut out the collar. 

Place paper underneath and make a tracing of the part above 
the breast-line and forward of the crease-line (22). Place the 
traced piece on the draft, and, holding it at the breast-line, swing 
the upper part forward 1 inch, as from 22 to 26. Mark around it 
to the point of the rever ; shape from the point of the rever to 
the end of the roll and connect 26 and the breast-line where it 
intersects the crease-line as represented. 

Cut out the dart, adding a seam's width forward of 22 and 
backward of 26. 

All the remaining points excepting Y and 9 are obtained in 
the same manner as explained for Diagram 25. 

As there is no fish taken Out under the arm the sideseam of 
the forepart is reduced two seams, width, or l / 2 inch as from 
5 to Y, and the bottom of the scye is reshaped as represented. 
The quantity taken out between T and 9 may be any part of 
the back-waist surplus (T to U) not exceeding 2/3 of it, as de- 
sired. When more shapeliness is desired at the back-waist it 
should be taken out by a fish under the arm, and then the side- 
seam should be shaped above 9 to 5 on the backpart. 



(60) 




Diagram 27. 



(61) 



DOUBLE-BREASTED SACK COAT. 

Diagram 28. 

TTHE backpart is drafted in the same manner as explained for 
Diagram 25. 

All the points on the forepart excepting 3, 4, 18, 20, 22, 23, 
24, 25, 26, G and H are obtained in the same manner as ex- 
plained for Diagram 25. 

The line R, W, 21 is the center-of-front. 

The width of the front forward of the center-of-front line is 
governed by style. For this coat R to 3 and W to 4 are each 2-)4 
inches. Connect R and \V, 3 and 4 by lines curving somewhat 
forward of straight lines, and establish the position of the 
buttons and buttonholes according to style. Sweep backward 
from the eyes of the buttonholes, pivoting at the neck and center- 
of-front (at about the position of point 20) to obtain the height 
of the buttons. From the center-of-front line to the button-line 
is Yx mcn l ess than to the front edge. 

Next draw a straight line from y 2 inch forward of 13 to the 
end of the roll, and another between the same points rounding 
forward of the straight line about y 2 inch as represented. 

Obtain points 18, 23, 24 and 25, also the lines G and H in the 
same manner as explained for Diagram 26, and shape the gorge 
from 13 to 24. 

Draw a straight line from about the position of 20 to about 
midway between O and R. Make a tracing of that part of the 
rever which is above the breast-line and forward of the line 
below 20 ; cut it out and lay it on the draft. Pivot the traced 
piece at the breast-line below 20, and swing the upper part 
forward 1 inch as from 20 to 26. Mark from 26 to the point of 
the rever and shape the front below as represented. 

The bottom is usually shaped from the sideseam passing one 
inch below 21. It may be more or less than 1 inch, according 
to style. 

When cutting out the dart add % inch forward of 20 and 
the same backward of 26, as represented. 



(62) 




Diagram 28. 
(63) 



SINGLE-BREASTED UNIFORM JACKET. 

Diagram 29. 

/"\N THE accompanying diagram is shown a single-breasted uni- 
form jacket. It closes at the neck and is close-fitting at the 
back-waist. 

The measures used for this draft are for a regular form of 36 
breast. The neck is 17 and depth-of-gorge 8. 

To Draft. 

Square both ways from the top of the backpart as repre- 
sented ; obtain the back-depth, natural-waist, seat-line, full length 
and point 1, and square forward from each. 

C to F is 1 inch. E to 3 is 34 inch. Shape the center-of-back 
seam as represented. 

All the points on and above the breast-line excepting 2, 12, 
18, 24, 19 and 22 are obtained in the same manner as explained 
for Diagram 25, excepting that the back-shoulder seam may be 
drawn a trifle higher by extending the guide-line to Q instead 
of to P. Connect 1 and P to establish 5. 

F to T is yi breast. 

F to T and S to U is the back-waist. 

F to T and U to V is a full half of the waist. 

V to W is 2%. inches. 

From 3 to 6 is 1 inch more than F to T. 

Shape the side-back from 5 to T and 6 as represented. 

Square downward from U to establish 7. From 7 to 8 is 3 
inches when the seat is 5 inches larger than the waist, and J4 
inch more or less than 3 inches according as the difference be- 
tween the seat and waist is more or less than 5 inches. 

From T to 9 is two-thirds of the quantity between T and U. 
Shape from 5 through 9 and 8 as represented, and make U to 10 
the same as T to 6. Shape the bottom from 10, passing l / 2 inch 
below 21 (or to style). 

Pivot at R and sweep downward from B. Take the same dis- 
tance that R is from B and, pivoting at X, sweep downward just 



(64) 




(6s: 



below B to establish O. Pivot at O and sweep upward from R 
to X. This establishes 2. 

To establish 24 proceed as follows : 

Place the end of the tape-measure at X, extend it to 13 and 
then to W. Hold it at W, extend it towards 2, and make a 
short sweep across the sweep-line from R to X, ^ inch above 
the measure for depth-of-gorge. (The measure in this case 
being 8, the sweep is at J]/ 2 .} Now shape the gorge from 13 to 
the sweep-line and apply the measure for the half size of neck 
and Y\ inch more from X through 13, following the gorge to 24. 

Shape the center-of-front from 24 through R and W as repre- 
sented. 

From 24 to 18, R to 19 and W to 20 are each iy 2 inch. From 
24 to 12, R to 22 and W to 23 are each ->4 inch. The line below 
12 represents the edge of the top or buttonhole side. That below 

18 represents the edge of the under, or button side. 

The line below 24 is the center-of-front and the button line. 

Apply the arm-scye measure as explained for Diagram 4. 

Draw a straight line from T / 2 inch backward of K through S 
and make the width of the fish at S the same as U to 9. 

These coats are sometimes ornamented with wide braid, 
which is laid (the outer edge) on the center-of-front on each 
forepart. In which case the front of the left forepart is cut of! on 
the line below 24. The button side is extended Vx inch beyond 18, 

19 and 20, and the line below 12 is the button-line. The fronts 
close with a .fly. 

To draft the collar proceed as follows: Draw a straight line 
a« from 24 towards 25. From 24 to 25 is the same as the size of 
the neck. Square upward from 25. From 25 to 26 is 1 inch. 
Shape from 26 to 24 as represented. 

Square upward from 26, make the width i> 4 inch, and finish 
as represented. 



(66) 



SINGLE-BREASTED SACK COAT. 

(Corpulent Form.) 

Diagrams 30 and 31. 

HTHE measures used for the accompanying diagrams are 46 
breast, 48 waist, 49 seat, 9)4 back-scye depth, i6y 2 natural 
waist, 25 seat-line, 29 length, 8^g half-back width, 133/ blade, 
14 M front-scye depth. 1934 over-shoulder, ny 2 back-waist, and 
19 arm-scye. 

To Draft. 

Diagram 30. — All the points on the backpart are obtained in 
the same manner as explained for Diagram 25, excepting 4, 5, T 
and 6. E to 4 is J / 2 inch, the same as C to F. Point 5 is obtained 
by connecting 1 and K. T is obtained by squaring downward 
from midway between I and J. From 4 to 6 is 1 inch more than 
F toT. 

All the points on and above the breast-line are obtained in 
the same manner as explained for Diagram 25. 

F to T and S to U is the back-waist. 

F to T and U to V is a full half of the waist. 

V to \Y is 2^4 inches, W to 3 is the same as R to 2. Square 
downward from 3 to establish 21. 

Square downward from IT to establish 7. 

From 7 to Y is 3 inches. From Y to 8 is as many quarters 
of an inch as the difference between waist and seat is less than 
5 inches. In this case the difference is 4 inches less than 5, and 
Y to 8 is therefore 1 inch. 

As much of the back-waist surplus ( U to T) may be taken 
out between T and 9 as necessary to give good form to the side- 
seam of the forepart. In this case it is nearly all taken out, for 
the reason just mentioned, also for the reason that forms of this 



((<7) 



class have a flat seat and are not as much hollowed in at the 
back-waist as other forms. In consequence of this fact if all 
of the surplus was taken out, the coat would not have too shapely 
an appearance, because the form is much less hollow-waisted than 
those having a small waist and large seat. 

M to O is i inch more than 34 breast. 

Having established the pocket opening draw a straight line 
from the back of it to a point at about the position of N. 

It is evident that if this coat was to button at all of the but- 
tons, the front edge would have to be shaped from opposite the 
top and bottom buttons on the line from 2 through 3. This 
would be an awkward looking shape, and should be avoided 
whenever possible. For forms of this class a coat that buttons 
at the top button only will tend to lessen the appearance of ex- 
cessive corpulency, and is the most suitable. Maintain the size 
therefore at the button which is to be utilized (the top one in 
this case). Below that button the front can be cut away as 
represented or to taste or style. 

The collar is drafted in the following manner : 

Extend the crease-line from 22, ^4 mcn forward of the front 
shoulder-point, and made from the shoulder-point to 25 the same 
as A to H on the backpart. 

Square upward and downward by the crease line from 25. 
From 25 to 26 is 1^4 inch. From 26 to 27 is 1^2 inch. Make 
the width and shape in front according to style, and finish as 
represented. 

Cut out the pattern and on the forepart cut down on the 
line below N to the pocket and across to the front of the pocket. 
Then proceed as explained for the next diagram. 



(68) 




Diagram 30. 



(69) 



Diagram 31. — A separate pattern may be made with the 
changes to be made in the pattern for the forepart, or the changes 
can be made on the material, as preferred. In either case mark 
from opposite the pocket at B up and around the shoulder and 
scye to the slash which is at N, and then on to C and D. Make 
a mark at the bottom at the front-length H. 

Spread the mouth of the pocket open as from C to E, accord- 
ing to the degree of corpulency. For a form having a waist 2 
inches less than breast, make from C to E 34 inch. When the 
waist is as large as the breast, spread Yi inch. When the waist 
is 2 or more inches larger than the breast, spread y\ inch. 

Mark from D to E, E to F, and down the sideseam to G. 
Make a cross-mark at G for the side-length ; press the fullness 
flat at B, and mark from B to H. 



(70) 




Diagram 31. 



o-o 



WHOLE BACKS. 

Diagrams 32 and 33. 

pvIAGRAM 32 — Draw a straight line as A E. 

Establish A ; place the end of the tape-measure x /\ inch below 
it ; mark lengths to B, C, D, E and I and square across from each. 

Obtain all the remaining points except 2 and 3 as heretofore 
explained. 

Reduce a seam's width forward of A and E as from 2 to 3. 
When marking on the material the line from 2 to 3 is laid even 
with the fold of the goods. The material must be well stretched 
en the sideseam at T and well shrunk at above and below C. 

Diagram 33 — A back which has been drafted with a shaped 
center-back seam may be changed to a whole back by laying 
the back as first drafted over another piece of paper, the top and 
bottom touching a straight line at A and E as represented. 

Also reduce the width *4 i ncn as from A to 3 and E to 4 by 
a straight line. 

When marking on the material the line 3 to 4 is laid even 
with a fold of the goods. The slight increase in width at the 
back-center on the waist-line is taken off from the sideseam di- 
rectly opposite, as represented by the heavy line. 

The material must be well stretched at the sideseam and 
shrunk at the back-center on the waist-line. 



(72) 




Diagram 32. 



Diagram & 



73) 



THE SLEEVE. 

Diagrams 34 and 35. 

HPHE measures used for the accompanying diagrams are as fol- 
* lows: 18 length, 16 elbow, 12 hand, 16*4 scye. The scye, 
16*4, is the make-up size (after deducting for six seams). It is 
obtained by placing the end of the tape-measure at 2 (see dia- 
gram 4) and measuring to 3, keeping )/\ inch from the edge of 
the scye, as represented by the broken line. Then place the quan- 
tity thus found at 2 and measure up to point 1 following the 
broken line. 

We will suppose when thus measured to be 17^4 inches. From 
this deduct for six seams (i l / 2 inches) and the remainder, 16%, 
is the make-up size. 

Diagram 34 — Take about a yard of paper and fold it length- 
wise. Press the fold flat. Now open out the fold and lay the 
paper with the hollow of the crease underneath. The crease-line 
thus made is represented by the heavy line A B. 

Place the angle of the drafting-square on the crease-line as at 
C and the end of the long arm 2 inches backward of the crease- 
line as at D. Make a mark at C; draw a line from C to D and 
continue the line upward towards F. 

C to E is the same as from the front-scye notch to the breast- 
line, i l / 2 inch. Square backward from E by the line C D, and 
forward towards X. 

E. to F is the same as J to Z on the back of the coat. Square 
by the line F D from F towards J. 

E to L is a full fourth of the scye, 4 1/16 inches. Square 
upward from L. 

F to J is a full half of the scye, 8^8 inches. L to K is a full 
third of the scye, $yi inches. 

Lay the pattern of the forepart on the sleeve draft, the breast- 
line directly over the line X Z, and the front-scye notch on the 
crease-line, as at C. Mark along the edge of the scye from C just 
past the line F J, and from C to H, as represented by the broken 
line. 

Establish G and H each )/ 2 inch from the edge of the scye, and 
shape from J through K and G to C, and from C through M, 
which is y 2 inch above the broken line, to H as represented. 

From C, following the solid line through M to H and on to 
I, is 24 inch more than the paper-size of the underarm scye (2 to 
Z, Diagram 4). Shape from I to H. 

E to Q is the length, 18 inches. Pivot at J and sweep from O 

(74) 



toward P. Q to P is ^ inch more than one-half the size at the 
hand, 6]/ 2 inches in all. From the crease-line at the elbow 
across to N is 1*4 inch more than one-half the size at the 
elbow, g J /i inches in all. Shape from J through N to P, P to Q, 
and from J / 2 inch backward of I to N as represented. 

Fold the paper on the crease-line A B and cut through both 
thicknesses from Q to P, N, J, K, and G to C. Open out the 
crease and cut singly from N to I, H and M to C. Make a notch 
at C. 

The pattern will now appear as represented by points J, C, I, 
S, Q, P and N back to J on Diagram 35. 

Diagram 35 — The line C O is the first crease-line and corre- 
sponds with the line A B on Diagram 34. 

From the line C Q to the line M R is iV 2 inch. Run a tracer 
along the line M R and fold the under-sleeve portion over on 
the top-sleeve as represented. Now cut through both thicknesses 
of paper from M to R, hollowing Y\ inch from the straight line 
at the elbow opposite N as represented by the solid line. 

When in this position the line M R represents the forearm 
seam of both portions. When in the position shown on Diagram 
34, the forearm seam of the top-sleeve is represented by the line 
S T and of the under-sleeve by the line M R. 

It should be observed that the line C D (Diagram 34) is at a 
right-angle with the breast-line X Z, and that the position of the 
front of the sleeve at the bottom, as at Q forward of the perpen- 
dicular line C D, is regulated by the distance at which D is placed 
backward of B. For an over-erect form the line C D should be 
drawn nearer to the crease-line A B at the bottom, and for one 
more stooping than the average form it should be drawn further 
back. This will cause the sleeve to hang further back at the 
bottom for an erect form and further forward for a stooping form. 



(76) 




Diagram 35. 



(77) 



OVERCOATS. 

(Allowance for extra size.) 

'THE measures for an overcoat only should be taken over the 
under-coat. Then allowances are to be made for seams and 
ease only, when drafting, the same as explained for under-coats. 
When executing- an order for an under and overcoat, the 
measures may be taken over the vest in the same manner as for 
an under-coat. Then, when drafting for the overcoat, besides 
the usual allowances for seams, the following allowances must 
also be made for extra size : 

For Light-Weight Material. 

To the back-scye depth, front-scye depth, blade and back- 
waist, each }A inch ; to the half-back width, % inch ; to the over- 
shoulder, i inch, and to the breast, waist and seat, each 2 inches. 

For Medium Heavy-Weight Material. 

To the back-scye depth, front-scye depth, blade and back- 
waist, each 34 inch; to the half-back width, j/% inch; to the over- 
shoulder, i T / 2 inch, and to the breast, waist and seat, each 3 
inches. 

For Extra Heavy-Weight Material. 

To the back-scye depth, front-scye depth, blade and back- 
waist, each 1 inch ; to the half-back width, )A inch ; to the over- 
shoulder, 2 inches, and to the breast, waist and seat each 4 
inches. 

THE "CHESTERFIELD" OR FLY-FRONT OVERCOAT. 

Diagram 36. 

THE measures used for the accompanying diagram are: 38 

breast 34 waist, 39 seat, y 1 /^ half-back width, 9^ back-scye 

depth, 173/2 natural waist, 26 seat-line, 40 length, ny 2 blade, 13 

front-scye depth, IJ% over-shoulder, 8>4 back-waist. These 

measures are as taken over the under-coat. 

« 

To Draft. 

Square the lines A G and A E. 
Place the end of the tape-measure % inch below A and mark 
the back-scye depth at B, the natural waist at C, seat-line at D 
and V; inch more than the full length at E. 

(78) 



B to i is y 2 of the back-scye depth. Square forward from 
each of the above points. 

' C to F is y 2 inch. E to n is ^ inch. Shape the center-of- 
back from A through F to 1 1 as represented. 

A to G is 1/6 breast. G to H is 1/24 breast. From 1 to Z is 
y 2 inch more than the half-back width. Square upward and 
downward from Z. 

From the center-of-back opposite B to K is the blade. K to L 
is 24 inch. K to M is 1^2 inch. 

K to P is \)/\ inch more than 1/6 breast. From the center- 
of-back opposite B to O is a full half of the breast. Q to R is 2 l / 2 
inches. R to 2 is 2 inches or to style. 

Square upward from P and AT, and downward from K to estab- 
lish S. 

I is half-way from the center-of-back opposite B 7 to M. I to 
J is 1% inch. (By squaring upward from J the natural half- 
back width is obtained.) Connect H and P. 

From 4 to 12 is x / 2 inch, more or less, according to style. 
Shape from 12 to the front-scye notch, which is i l / 2 inch above 
M. The bottom of the scye is Y\ inch below the breast-line. 
Connect 1 to M to establish 5 (or establish 5 according to style). 

F to T is y 2 inch more than 1/3 breast, or as wide as the 
current style. From 1 1 to 6 is 1 inch more than F to T. Shape 
the side-back from 5 through T to 6 as represented. 

L to X is V4 inch more than the front-scye depth. L to Y is 
yi inch more than the over-shoulder. Connect L and X to 
establish 14. 

Pivot at L and sweep forward from X. Pivot at 14 and 
sweep backward from Y. 

X to 17 is 14 breast. Square forward from 17. 

Extend the center-of-front line upward by a sweep from R to 
X, finding a pivot just below B, as at the unlettered circled disk. 

F to T and S to U is the back-waist. F to T and U to V is a 
full half of the waist. V to W is 2*4 inches. W to 3 is the same 
as R to 2. Square downward from 3 to establish X T . 

The quantity between T and U (3 inches for this draft) rep- 
resents a surplus through the back-waist more than the back- 
waist measure. As the overcoat is not made close-fitting through 
the back-waist, the amount taken out between T and 9 and in the 
fish under the arm depends upon style. In this instance T to 9 
is 1 inch and the fish is y 2 inch wide on the waist-line. This 
amount, taken out between T and 9 and in the fish, gives a mod- 
erately close-fitting back-waist. 

Square downward from U to establish 7. 

(79) 



When the seat is 5 inches larger than the waist, as in this case, 
then from 7 to 8 is 2> l A inches. For each additional inch that the 
seat is more than 5 inches larger than the waist, then from 7 to 8 
is 54 inch more than 3^ inches. When the seat is less than 5 
inches larger than the waist, then from 7 to 8 is % inch less than 
$y 2 inches for each inch of difference less than 5. 

Draw a guide-line from 5 through 8 and shape the sideseam 
as represented. 

N to 18 is y 2 inch, or to style. Shape the bottom as repre- 
sented, making 9 to 10 the same as T to 6. 

Cut out the backpart and lay it in the position shown on 
the upper part of the diagram. Point A is on the sweep-line 
forward of X, H is on the line which is squared upward from 
P and B is on the sweep-line from Y. This establishes 13. Place 
a weight on the backpart and mark lightly along the back-shoul- 
der seam. Connect B and 14 to establish 15. 

Shape the front-shoulder from 13 through 15, rounding off 
about V\ inch below the outer back-shoulder point to 16, as 
explained for Diagram 4. Make 13 to 16 the same as H to 12. 
and finish the scye from 16 to the front-scye notch. 

Shape the gorge lightly from 13, about as represented. It 
touches the line which is squared forward from 17, but is liable 
to be changed wdien the style points are obtained later. 

Now establish the end of the roll and draw the rever-crease- 
line towards a point Y\ inch forward of 13. 

The broken line numbered 27 is at the height of the neck in 
front. It is drawn parallel with the breast-line from where the 
line which is squared forward from 17 intersects with the sweep- 
line from R to X. The line numbered 28 is midway between 
the neck and breast lines. 

Now study carefully the style which you are to reproduce in 
the overcoat, and mark the position of point 19, which appears 
to be on the fashion-plate selected about half way between the 
neck and breast lines and half way between the rever-crease-line 
and the front-of-scye. Connect 19 and the end of the roll, and 
mark, approximately, at least, the direction of the run of the top 
of the rever, as from 19 towards 20. Establish 20 according to 
style in its relation to points 19 and 23. 

Square across by the crease-line from 19 and 20. From the 
crease-line to 21 is the same as to 19, and from the crease-line to 
22 is the same as to 20. Now reshape the gorge from 13 to 22. 

From about an inch backward of 2.2 draw a line about midway 
between Q and R, as from 24 to 26. Make a tracing of the part 
of the rever which is above the breast-line and forward of the 

(80) 




Diagram 36. 

(8j) 



line from 24 to 26 and, pivoting it at 26, swing the upper part 
forward 1 inch and mark around it. This gives 25 and the top 
oi the rever. Shape from the point of the rever to the end of the 
roll, also the dart from 25 to 26. When cutting out the dart add 
Y A inch forward of the line from 24 to 26 and the same back- 
ward of the line from 25 to 26 as represented. 

The line X R W is the center-of-front. From this line to the 
button-line is }i inch less than to the front edge. 

M to O is 34 breast. Square downward from O for the front 
of the pocket. The flap is cut to finish about 3 inches wide and 
the opening is about 1/3 breast. 

When it is desired that the coat shall be less shaped in at the 
back-waist than as on this diagram, then omit the fish under the 
arm ; reduce the width of the forepart l / 2 inch opposite 5 and J 
and reshape the scye, as explained for Diagram 27. 

SINGLE-BREASTED OVERSACK. 

Diagram 37. 

HTHIS modern Fly-Front Oversack, suitable for Spring wear, 
has very pleasing lines, and, when contrasted with styles 
heretofore worn, presents many points of decided change and 
improvement. It is 40 inches in length for a man 5 feet 8 inches. 
The shoulder seams are somewhat higher than formerly, and are 
of natural width. The shoulders are made plain, with but very 
little padding. The gorge is low. The fronts close with two 
buttons, the top one being about an inch above the waist-line, 
and the revers are moderately peaked. It is two-thirds tight- 
fitting at the back-waist and the skirts have a decided flare. 
The center-back seam has a deep vent extending to within 3 
inches of the waist-line. The explanation for this diagram will 
show the adaptability of the system to the fluctuations of fashion. 
The same principle that underlies the construction of all the 
coats described in this work are employed without deviation. 
Changes in style from season to season affect the position of 
seams, shapeliness or fullness at the waist and through the skirts, 
the length of roll, depth of gorge, shape of the revers and 
front, and length of coat, etc. The cutter must always keep in 
touch with current styles, and must conform to all that per- 
tains to the style features of a garment. This the intelligent 
cutter can do and not depart an iota from any fixed principle. 
The accompanying diagram is a reduction of a draft made 
from the following measures, viz. : 
40 breast, 36 waist. 41 seat, p/% half-back width, 9 back-scye 

(82) 



depth, \y]/ 2 natural-waist, 26*4 seat line, 40 length, 12 blade, 
1 3 I A front-scye depth, i8 r 4 over-shoulder, 8% back-waist, ij)/ 4 
scye. 

To Draft. 

Place the angle of the square at A and square forward and 
downward. 

From ' 4 inch below A to B is the back-scye depth, to C is the 
natural waist, to D is the seat-line and to E is the length. Point 
1 is half of the back-depth above B. Square forward from 1, B, 
C, D and E. 

A to G is 1/6 breast. G to H is 1/24 breast. C to F is Y\ 
inch. Connect A, F and E. This establishes 1 and B. 

B to K is the blade. Square down from K to establish S. K 
to L is «vj inch. K to M is i 1 /* inch. I is half-way between B 
and M. I to J is i J /\ inch. Square up from AI and J. This 
gives O, Z and 19. 

K to P is 1^4 inch more than 1/6 breast. Square up from P. 
B to Q is a full half of the breast. O to R is 2 x / 2 inches. R to 2 
is 2^4 inches or to style. 

Connect H and 30 which is half-way between (J and R. 
Shape the scye from 4 (which is y 2 inch forward of the line from 
19 to J), to the notch at front of scye, which is i l / 2 inch above M, 
dropping y 2 inch below r the breast-line as represented. 

Connect 1 and K. This gives 5. 20 is half-way between Z 
and O. Draw a straight line from 20 through S. This gives N. 

F to T is 1/3 breast. 9 from E is 2 l / 2 inches more than F to 
T. Shape the side back seam from 5 to T and "9 as represented. 
Below 5 it is rounded slightly forward of a straight line from 
5 to T, crossing the straight line half-way from 5 to T and from 
there it is hollowed slightly from the straight line to T. 

F to T and S to U is the back-waist. F to T and U to Y is 
a full half of the waist. V to \Y is 2V4 inches. W to 3 is the 
same as R to 2. Connect R and W. Connect 2 and 3. 

The draft between F and S measures nj/ inches. The back- 
waist measure being 8; j inches, there is a surplus of material 
between F and S of 2-J4 inches. This surplus is represented 
by the quantity between T and U. As the coat is to be 2/3 
tight-fitting through the back waist, 2^ of the surplus is to be 
taken out between T and 6 and S and 7 as follows: 2/3 of 2-V* 
inches is about 2 inches. 3^ of this, or \\- 2 inch is taken out 
between T and 6 and the remaining \ ■> inch between S and 7. 

Square down from U to establish 8. Square backward from 
8. 10 from 8 is 3J/ inches. Draw straight lines from 5 to 6 

(83) 



and n. Square forward from E to establish 9. 11 from 5 is 
the same as 9 from 5. 

Square downward from 3 to establish 12, and shape the bot- 
tom from 11 to 29 passing 1 inch below 12. From 2]/ 2 inches 
below F add 1*4 mcn f° r tne vent as represented. 

L to X is }i inch more than the front-depth, and on to V 
is Y± inch more than the over-shoulder. Draw a straight line 
from L through X. This gives 14. Pivot at L and sweep for- 
ward from X. Pivot at 14 and sweep backward from Y. 

17 from X is *4 breast. Square forward from 17. Cut out 
the back part leaving a margin of paper above A to H, and lay 
it in the position shown by the part which is shaded. H is on 
the line squared up from P, A is on the sweep-line forward of 
X and B touches the sweep-line backward from Y. Connect P> 
and 14. This establishes 15 and 13. 

Shape the front-shoulder from 13 through 15 rounding off 
Y\ inch below the outer back-shoulder point towards 16 and 
make 13 to 16 the same as II to 4. Finish the scye from 16 to 
the notch at front-of-scye. 

Establish the end of the roll, point 28 according to style. In 
this case it is i l / 2 inch above the waist-line. 

Draw a slightly outward curved line from 28 to a point V± 
inch forward of 13. Establish 21 and 22 according to style. 
Square forward by the crease-line from 21 and 22. From the 
crease-line to 23 is the same as to 22 and from the crease-line to 
24 is the same as to 21. 

Shape the gorge from 13 to 2^, and the rever from 2^ to 24 
and 28. 

Draw a straight line from 30 to 26 as represented. Making a 
tracing of the rever forward of 26 and 30, lay it on the draft and, 
pivoting it at 30, swing the upper part forward 1 inch as from 26 
to 27. Mark all around the traced piece reshaping below the 
point of the rever to the end of the roll. 

18 from S is y 2 inch more than l /\ breast. Square downward 
from 18 and from this line square back about 1% inch more than 
half-way from the waist-line to the seat-line. Mark for the 
pocket opening dropping the front end l / 2 inch below the squared 
line as represented. 

The extra length on the seam from N through 7 is pressed 
in at the shading below N. 



(84) 




Diagram 37. 
(85) 



FLY-FRONT OVERCOAT, FULL BOX BACK. 

(Corpulent Form.) 
Diagram 38. 

HpHE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as fol- 
lows : 40 breast, 40 waist, 42 seat, 79/3 half-back width, 9 

back-scye depth, i6 l / 2 natural waist, 25 seat-line, 42 length, 12 

blade, 13^2 front-scye depth, 18 over-shoulder, 9 back-waist, 17% 

scye. These are arranged in the first row of figures below. 
In the second row of figures are the allowances to be made for 

extra size when drafting an overcoat from the body measures 

taken as for an under-coat, over the vest, and when the material 

is light weight. 

The measures then, as used when drafting, are arranged in 

the third row of figures : 

40; 40; 42; 7^; 9 ;i6y 2 ;25 ; 42; 12 ; 13^; 18; 9 ; 17%. 
2; 2; 2; y 4 ; y 2 ; y 2 ; y 2 ; ; y 2 ; y 2 ; 1; y 2 ; 2 . 

42 ; 42 ; 44 ; 7% ; 9^ ; 17 ; 25^ ; 42 ; \2)/ 2 ; 14 ; 19 ; gy 2 ; 19^. 

To Draft. 

Obtain points A, B, C, D, E and F in the same manner as 
explained for Diagram 36 and square forward from each. 

All the points on and above the breast-line, excepting 5, 31, 
32 and 33, are obtained in the same manner as for Diagram 36. 

Observe that points 1 B and F are on the line A. F. 

B to 5 is 1 inch less than y 2 breast. Square downward from 
5 towards 6. 

F to T and S to U is the back-waist. Square downward from 
U to establish 7. 

F to T and U to V is a full half of the waist. Y to W is 2*4 
inches. AY to 3 is the same as R to 2. Square downward from 
3 to establish N. 

Take the width from B to R and, finding a pivot just below 
B, sweep from R to X. Now take a slightly curved rule and, 
holding one end at W, swing the other until it touches the sweep- 
line from R to X. Mark by it as represented. This estab- 
lishes 31. 

From 31 to 32 is the same as R to 2. Connect ^2 and 3, and 
shape below 3 as represented or to style. 

Shape the center-of-back from A by a straight line passing 
y 2 inch backward of D, and square forward by this line from E 
to establish 6. 

(86) 



From 5 to 33 is V2 inch. (It may be made 1 inch if a very full 
blade is desired.) 

From 7 to 8 is 5*4 inches in this case. Draw a straight line 
from 33 through 8 and make from 33 to 10 the same as from 5 to 
6. Shape the bottom from 10 to Y / 2 inch below N as represented. 

Establish the end of the roll, also points 19. 20, 21 and 22, and 
work in the neck-dart, all in the same manner as explained for 
Diagram 36. 

Place paper underneath the draft and trace off the backpart. 
The forepart can then be cut whole, the sideseam on the line 
from 33 to 10. Cut from the scye to and across the pocket open- 
ing and spread the cut as explained for Diagram 31. 

Special attention is directed to the following: To obtain the 
run of the front-shoulder seam make a tracing of that part only 
of the backpart that is above the breast-line and forward of the 
line A. B. Lay this piece in the position shown on the upper 
part of the diagram. 

From 7 to 8 is 6 inches^ only when the seat is 5 or more inches 
larger than the waist. For each inch that the difference is less 
than 5 inches, then from 7 to 8 is y^ inch less than 6 inches, 5J4 
inches for this draft. 

The fullness through the forepart can be exaggerated by 
squaring downward from P and proceeding as follows : Take 
another piece of paper; lay the forepart pattern on it; mark from 
13 across the shoulder, along the scye to 33, down to 10 and 
across the bottom to 34. Pivot at 13; swing the bottom forward 
3 inches, as from 34 to 35, and mark to N and upward to 13. 
Also add ^ inch to the front below the waist line to nothing at 
the point of the rever as represented by the broken line. 



(88) 



THE INVERNESS. 

(Without Sleeves.) 

Diagram 39. 

TPHE measures used for the accompanying diagram as taken 
over the under coat are as follows : 38 breast, 34 waist, 39 seat, 
gYi back-scye depth, ijy natural waist, 26 seat-line, 45 length, 
ny 2 blade, 13 front-scye depth, 18^ over-shoulder and 8*4 back- 
waist. 

When drafting, increase the breast, waist and seat each 1 inch. 
The measures will then be as follows, viz. : 

39; 35; 40; 9^4; 17H; 26; 45; ny 2 ; 13; 18M; sy 4 . 

To Draft. 

Square the lines A E and A 19. 

Place the end of the tape-measure ]/\ inch below A and 
mark the back-scye depth at B, the natural waist at C, seat-line 
at D and ^4 inch more than the length at E. 

B to 1 is half of the back-scye depth. Square forward from 
1. B, C, D and E. 

C to F is l /> inch. Connect A and F to establish X. C to 4 
is y 2 inch. Draw a straight line from A through 4 and square 
forward from 5. 

(89) 



A to G is 1/6 breast. G to H is 1/24 breast. N to I is half of 
the blade. I to J is 2 inches. 

E to 6 is 2 inches more than 1/3 breast. Shape the backpart 
from A to H, J and 6 as represented. 

N to K is the blade. Square downward from K to establish 
S. 

S to U is the back-waist less the width of the backpart from 
F to the sideseam. Square downward from U to establish 8. 

From 8 to M is 6 inches. 

Draw a straight line from J through M. J to R is 1/3 breast. 

K to P is \]/\ inches more than 1/6 breast. Square upward 
from P. 

N to O is a full half of the breast. O to R is 2^ inches. R to 
2 is 2 inches, or to style. 

S to V is a full half of the waist less the back-waist, 9*4 
inches for this draft. V to W is 2% inches. W to 3 is the same 
as R to 2. Square downward from 3 and W. Shape the bottom 
from 7, passing y 2 inch below Z and the front from 2 through 3 
to 21 as represented. 

K to L is 34 inch. L to X is -m inch more than the front- 
scye depth, and on to Y is ->4 mcn more than the over-shoulder. 
Pivot at L and sweep forward from X. Pivot at 14 and sweep 
backward from Y. 

X to 17 is Y$ breast. Square forward from 17. Square upward 
from J to establish 19. Connect 19 and N to establish 10. 

Cut out the backpart and place it in the position shown on 
the upper part of the diagram with H resting on the line P X, 
A touching the sweep-line from X and N on the sweep-line from 
Y This establishes 13 (When placing the backpart in position 
observe that point N is on the line A F, and not on the one 
from A through 4.) Shape the front-shoulder from 13 through 10. 

From 13 to 12 is the same as H to 10. Shape the scye from 
12 through L to R as represented. 

Shape the gorge and rever to taste or style. 

L to O is 1 inch more than *4 breast. 

The Cape. — Apply the length straight down from X. 

Lay the backpart in the same position as when drafted. Pivot 
at 13 and sweep backward from the length. Shape the shoulder 
seam from 13 through 10 and B as represented. 

The front of the cape leaves the gorge to clear the rever- 
crease-line and follows the button line to the bottom. 

The cape from 13 to within 3 or 4 inches of the bottom seams 
in with the side-back seam below H. 

(90) 




Diagram 39. 

(91) 



THE INVERNESS. 

( With Sleeves.) 

Diagram 40. 

HpHE measures used and taken over the under coat are the same 

as for the preceding diagram, except that the waist is 37 

and back-waist Sy inches. When drafting, increase the breast, 

waist and seat each 1 inch. The formula will then be as follows : 

39; 37; 40; gy 2 ; 1714; 26; 45; ny 2 ; 13; i8# ; SV 4 . 

To Draft. 

Square forward and downward from A, and obtain the lengths 
to B, C, D and E, also point 1, and square forward from 1, B, 
C, D and E. 

C to 10 is ^ inch. Draw a straight line from A through 
10 for the center-of-back. 

C to F is J / 2 inch. Connect F and A to establish N. 

N to K is the blade. K to L is y inch. K to M is i l / 2 inch. 
K to P is 1^4 inch more than 1/6 breast. N to Q is a full half 
of the breast. O to R is 2 x / 2 inches. R to 2 is 2 inches or to 
style. Square upward from M and P and downward from K. 
This gives S. 

From the line from J 19 to 4 is y inch. From 9 to Z is y 
inch. Shape the scye from 4 through Z to the front-scye notch 
iy 2 inch above M, dropping y 2 inch below the breast-line as 
represented. 

From 4 to 5 is 1 inch. E to 6 is 2 inches more than 1/3 breast. 
Connect J and 6 to establish T, and shape from 5 through T to 6 
as represented. 

All the points on the forepart above the breast-line are ob- 
tained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 39. Ob- 
serve particularly that point N is on the line A F, not on the 
center-of-back line, and that N rests on the sweep-line from Y. 

F to T and S to U is the back-waist. F to T and U to V is a 
full half of the waist. V to W is 2)4 inches. W to 3 is the same 
as R to 2. Square downward from W and 3. Make from 5 to 
12 the same as from 5 to 6 and shape from 12 to 21 passing y 2 
inch below 20. 

Take the distance from N to R and finding a pivot just be- 
low N sweep from R to X. This gives 18. The line below 18 
through R and W is the center-of-front. 

The cape is drafted in the same manner as explained for Dia- 
gram 39. It is represented by the broken lines. 

(92) 




'm+m 11 



Diagram 40. 

(93) 



DOUBLE-BREASTED FULL BOX OVERCOAT. 

(Square and Raglan Shoulders, Shawl Collar.) 

(Satin or Fur Lined.) 

Diagram 41. 

HpHE measures used for the accompanying diagram, as taken 
over the under coat, are as follows : 38 breast, 34 waist, 39 
seat, 8>j4 back-scye depth, 17 natural waist, 2^/2 seat-line, 46 
length, 7^8 half-back width, 11^2 blade, 12% front-scye depth, 
17^2 over-shoulder, 8^4 back-waist. 

For satin lining draft from these measures as hereinafter 
explained : For a fur-lined overcoat draft in all respects in the 
same manner, but to the increased lengths and widths, as follows, 
viz. : 40 ; 36 ; 41 ; 9^ ; 17^ ; 26 ; 46 ; 7% ; 12 ; 1334 ; 18^ ; 8/4. 

The fur-lined coat closes with loops and buttons. The buttons 
are placed as much backward of the center-of-front line as the 
front edge is forward of it. For the satin-lined coat they are 
placed 1 inch forward of their position on the diagram, provided 
the fronts close with buttonholes. 

To Draft. 

Square the lines A 19 to A E. 

Place the end of the tape-measure Vj inch below A and mark 
the back-scye depth at B, the natural-waist at C, the seat-line at 
D and *4 incn more than the full length at E. Point 1 is half way 
between A and B. Square forward from 1, B, C, D and E. 

Obtain all the points on and above the breast-line in the same 
manner as explained for any of the preceding diagrams, excepting 
points 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 2, N and X), which are obtained as fol- 
lows : Connect H and Q instead of H and P. 

R to 2 is 4 inches or to style. By squaring upward from M 
establishes 20. 

The points on the waist-line must be established before pro- 
ceeding further. 

S to U is the back-waist. U to V is a full half of the waist. V 
to W is 2 inches. \Y to 3 the same as R to 2. Square downward 
from 3 and connect 2 and 3. 

Now establish the end of the roll and draw the crease-line by 
an outward curve from a straight line from the end of the roll to 
a point y 2 inch forward of the front-shoulder point. 

Shape the collar on the forepart and backpart as represented 
by the parts which are shaded, according- to style. For a shawl 

(94) 



collar it is immaterial whether the gorge is shaped high or low. 
Shape it about as represented. 

Square upward from R to establish 22. Establish 23 as much 
forward of the crease-line as the width of the rever backward of 
it, and shape the front from 23 past the end of the roll and 
through 3 to the bottom as represented. 

Make a tracing of that part of the rever forward of R and 
22 and, pivoting it at R, swing the upper part forward 1 inch, as 
from 22 to 24. Mark by the traced piece from 24 to the point 
of the rever and to the end of the roll as represented by the heavy 
lines. Add a seam below 22 and 24. 

N is half way between J and M. E to 9 is 2 inches more than 
B to N. Connect N and 9. 

The forepart overlaps the backpart 1 inch, as from N to O. 

The backpart from F to T is, in this case, 2*4 inches wider 
than the back-waist. Point 6 is therefore established 2^4 inches 
forward of S. (C to F is ^ inch, as before.) Square downward 
from 6 to establish 7. From 7 to 8 is 6 inches, or more if more 
fullness is desired through the seat. Draw a straight line from 
O through 8 and make o to 10 the same as N to 9. 

From 11 to 12 is }i inch. Shape from 10 to 12 as represented. 

The pocket is on a line drawn from M parallel with line N 
to 9. It is 2 inches below the waist-line and is 9 inches long. It 
is finished with a welt i J / 2 inch wide. 

C to 5 is y 2 inch. It may be made 1 inch if more fullness is 
desired. Shape the center-of-back from A through 5. Point 9 
is established by squaring forward from the center-of-back. 

For the Raglan shoulder shape the back-shoulder as repre- 
sented, and for the front-shoulder establish 21, J / 2 inch or more 
if desired below 13 and shape from 21 through 20 as represented. 

Mark the shape of the outer edge of the collar by a tracer, so 
that it can be seen on the other side of the draft, and, after having 
cut the patterns for the forepart and backpart, proceed as fol- 
lows : 

The Collar — Two collars are shown on this diagram, viz. : a 
Hat collar without stand and a creased collar with a stand. The 
one with a stand is drafted in the following manner: 

The light lines represent the forepart and backpart of the 
coat shown on Diagram 41 laid together at the shoulder-seam. 
Points A, 13, 23, 25 and 26 are the same as on the preceding 
diagram. 

Extend the crease-line from 26 past 13. (The pattern for the 
coat has been cut out and the shape of the collar marked by a 
tracer as from 25 to 28 and 29.) 

At about the width of the backpart from 13 go downward 

(96) 



from the crease-line i inch, as from 2 to 3, and shape the seam- 
edge as from 3 to 26. 

From 2 towards 4 is the same as 2 to 3. From the crease- 
line toward 5 is the same as from the crease-line to the seam- 
edge of the collar. Shape from 4 through 5 to 26 as represented 
by the light solid line. 

Mark the shape of the forepart from 26 to 23 and down 
towards 25, and place the forepart pattern in reversed position 
on the crease-line, the forepart at 26 touching the crease-line at 
26, and 13 on the line from 4 to 26. This establishes 5. Mark 
along the front-shoulder to the line made by the tracer from 25 




(97) 



to 28. and along the traced line. This gives the heavy line from 
5 to 8 and 8 to 23. 

Xow lay the pattern for the backpart of the coat in reversed 
position, with the neck point H at 5, and A at 4. Mark along 
the center-of-back to 29, which gives point 6; along the shoulder 
to 28, which gives 7, and from 28 to 29, which gives the heavy 
line from 6 to 7. 

The front section of this collar is represented by points 23, 
26, 9, 5, 8 and back to 23. The other section by points 9, 3, 2, 
4, 6, 7, 5 and back to 9. Reshape from 2 to J / 4 inch backward of 
6' and 'from 9, passing 3/g inch forward of 5, and running thence 
parallel with the back-shoulder and T 4 inch from it to opposite 7. 

Make single notches in collar and forepart near 23 and double 
notches below 7 and 8. Also make notches at the crease- 
line on each section. 

For heavy, long-haired fur, when a stand is not required, the 
forepart may be cut on the broken curved line from 25, striking 
the gorge just backward of 26. In that case the collar would be 
defined by points A, 29, 28, 25, 13 and back to A. 

THE RAGLAN SLEEVE. 
Diagrams 42, 43, 44 and 45. 

DIAGRAM 42— Draw a straight line as from A to B. 
Lay the pattern for the backpart with the breast-line directly 
over the line A B and mark around it above the breast-line from 
B to the side-seam at L. Establish points 1 and Z the same as 
on the pattern and remove the pattern. 

Draw a line from 1 through Z towards C. 

Lay the forepart pattern with the breast-line directly over 
the line A B and the side-seam to touch the backpart at L. Then 
mark around it from L, as shown by the broken line, to the front- 
shoulder point at 13. Mark the scye-notch at 2 and remove the 
pattern. 

Square upward from 2 by the line A B to establish C, and 
downward towards D. From 2 to E is a full half of the make-up 
size of the scye. (See explanation for Diagram 34.) 

Draw a straight line from 2 through 13 and from Z through 
H. From 13 to F is 2 inches. From H to G is 1 inch. Pivot at 
2 and sweep from F towards I. E to I is the same as Z to G. 

Lay the pattern for the backpart with H to touch at I and 
the line for the Raglan shoulder directly over E. Mark along 
the top of the back "below I (which is shown in a light, broken, 
circled line), and with a tracer mark the shape of the Raglan 

(98) 



shoulder. This gives the light line from I to E. Remove the 
pattern and shape the seam from V A inch backward of I to E 
as represented by the heavy line. 

Lay the fortpart pattern with point 13 to touch at I and the 
shoulder-seam against that of the back as represented by the 
light-circled line. Mark from 1 to X (which corresponds with 




<pk (fgfcD 



Diagram 42. 

(99.) 



13 and 21), and with a tracer mark from X to 20. This gives J. 
Remove the pattern and shape the Raglan shoulder from y± inch 
forward of X through J to 2 as represented. 

Shape the top of the undersleeve from 2 to L as represented 
y 2 inch above the bottom of the scye. 

From 2, following this line past L to 3, is Va inch more than 
the under-arm scye of the coat from 2 through L to Z. 

From 2 to D is 24 inches. D to K is 2 x / 2 inches. Connect 
2 and K. From A to O is the length. Pivot at E and sweep from 
O towards X. 

A to W is 1 inch less than half way from A to O. 

A to Q, A to R, O to S and O to T are each 1^2 inch. Square 
across from W by the line A O towards M. By the same line 
square from O to R and from S to T. 

W to M is \ l /\ inch more than the size required at the el- 
bow. O to X is y 2 inch more than the size required at the cuff. 
Connect Q and S to establish U. Connect R and T to establish V. 

Shape the top-sleeve from 2 to R and R to T, hollowing from 
the straight line Y± inch at V. Shape the backarm-seam from 
E through M to N, and the bottom from X T to T as represented. 
Shape the undersleeve from Q to S, hollowing V x inch opposite U. 
Add ]/ 2 inch backward of 3, and shape from there to M. 

Xotch the backpart opposite Z and the forepart and top-sleeve 
at 2. 

Diagram 43 — The object of the split-top sleeve is to secure 
extra length over the point of the shoulder, or more shoulder 
room than can be obtained by working in of the edges. The 
shaded part and all below it represents the upper part of the 
sleeve drafted as explained for Diagram 42. The line from 5 to 6 
corresponds with the breast-line. 

The line from 3 to 4 is Y / 2 inch more than 1/3 scye above the 
breast-line. The line from the notch through 5 and 7 is the line 
A O on Diagram 42. 

Lay the pattern over another piece of paper and trace off the 
part which is shaded. Cut this out and lay it over the draft. 
With a pencil point pivot the piece at 3 and swing the upper 
part forward 1 inch as from 1 to 9. Mark from 3 to 9 and across 
the top. 

Now pivot the piece at 4 and swing the upper part of it back- 
ward 1 inch as from 2 to 12. Mark from 4 to 12 and across the 
top. 

From 9 to io, and 12 to 11 are each one-half the quantity 
between 1 and 2. Point 13 is half way between 3 and 4. Point 14 

(too) 



is half way between 5 and 6. Point 15 is half way between 7 and 
8. Shape from 10 and 11 through 13, 14 and 15 to a point central 
to the width at the cuff, all as represented. 

Diagrams 44 and 45 represent the two parts of the top-sleeve 
which has been cut through on the lines below 10 and 11. This 
line is correspondingly numbered and is shown by the broken 
lines below 10 and 11. 

From 10 to 13 and 11 to 15 are each a seam's width, y± inch. 
which must be added all the way to the bottom. The heavy, solid 
lines represent the finished pattern. 

The quantity between 13 and 14 and between 15 and 16 repre- 
sent outlets which may be utilized if at the try-on it is found nec- 
essary to provide more neck, shoulder or arm room. 

The forepart and backpart may now be cut off on the lines for 
the Raglan shoulder. It will, however, be advantageous to leave 
that until after the try-on, having the top-sleeve basted on top 
of the shoulder. 




16 15 _ 



(O 6 




LL^J 



Diagram 4:; 



Diagram 44. Diagram 15. 



(IOI) 



FLY-FRONT PALETOT. 
Diagram 46. 

THE measures used for the accompanying diagram are the same 
as found on the "table" for a form of 38 breast taken over 
the under-coat. 

All the points on the backpart excepting 5, 14, D, E, T, O and 
2 are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 14. 

Connect A and K to establish 5. Connect Z and F to estab- 
lish 14. 

F to T is V 2 inch more than Y$ breast. A to D is % inch more 
than the fashionable-waist length, and on to E is ^ inch more 
than the full length. E to 2 is l / 2 inch more than D to O. 

All the remaining points on and above the breast-line, except- 
ing H, 18, 19, 20, 21 22, 25 23, and 15, are obtained in the same 
manner as explained for Diagram 14. 

R to 23 is 2 inches. F to T and S to U is the back-waist. 
F to T and U to V is a full half of the waist. V to W is i# 
inches. Connect 23 and 24, and square downward from 24 to 
establish N. 

Establish the end of the roll and draw the crease-line towards 
a point V\ inch forward of the front-shoulder point. Establish 
points 19, 20, 21 and 22 as explained for Diagram 36, and shape 
the gorge to 22. This establishes 18. 

Point 15 is 3 inches above the breast-line. Make a tracing of 
the part above 15 and forward of 18 to 22 and 21, pivot this at 
15 and swing the upper part forward 1 inch as from 18 to 25. 
Shape the V below 25 and the rever above the end of the roll 
passing in good form about )A inch forward of 23 as represented. 

The collar is \ l / 2 inch wide at the front and 2 inches at the 
back. 

Square downward from V. From 3 to 12 is 1/6 waist. T to 6 
is 2 inches, excepting for very stout waisted form, when 2 inches 
would establish 6 forward of U. In such case T to 6 is the same 
as T to U. 

From 6 to 7 is 14 breast. From 7 to 8 is the same as U to 6. 

Make 14 to 9 ^4 inch more than from 14 to O. Point 10 is ^4 
inch above the fashionable waist-line. From J to H is ^4 i ncn 
less than half-way from J to M. Connect FI and 7. 

Shape all the parts so far explained as represented. Draw a 
straight line from 12 through 11. 

From 11 to 26 is the same as 9 to 10. Square downward from 
26 by the line from 12 to 26. 

(102) 




Diagram 46. 

(103) 



From 26 to 27 is 9 inches. Square backward from 27. From 
2j to 28 is 2y 2 inches. For corpulent forms from 27 to 28 is Y\ 
inch less than 2]/ 2 inches for each inch that the difference between 
the waist and seat is less than 5 inches. Draw a straight line 
from 26 V 2 inch forward of 28. From 26 to 29 is 18 inches. Shape 
the crease-edge from 26 through 28 and 29, and add \y 2 inch for 
the plait as represented. 

From 26 to 30 is the same as O to 2. Point 31 is \y 2 inch 
below and forward of N. Shape from 24 to 31 and from 30 to 31 
as represented. 

From 12 to 13 is 1/6 breast. Shape the dart as represented, 
making it y± inch wide when the waist is 4 or more inches smaller 
than the breast, and 1/16 inch more than y inch for each inch 
that the waist is more than a waist which is 4 inches smaller than 
the breast. Hollow % inch from 11 to 13 as represented. 

Square downward by the waist-line about 1 inch backward 
of 13 for the pocket, and make the opening about 7 J/2 inches long. 

(The diagram is not drawn the full length to obviate excessive 
reduction.) 

SURTOUT OR NEWMARKET OVERCOAT. 

Diagram 47. 

HPHE measures, as found on the table, by which the accompany- 
ing diagram was drafted, are for a form of 40 breast, 37 
waist and 42 seat. 

This is only an enlarged frock-coat. It is drafted in most 
respects in the same manner as explained for Diagram 14. The 
skirt has more drapery, or fullness at the sides, caused by the 
greater amount taken out between I and X. 

To Draft. 

All the points on the backpart except T are obtained in the 
same manner as explained for Diagram 14. F to T is ^ inch 
more than y% breast, or to style. 

All the points on the sidebody and forepart excepting 19, 20. 
21, 22, 23 and 24 are obtained in the same manner as explained 
for Diagram 14. 

Extend the center-of-front line upward from R to X as repre- 
sented by the broken line, and as explained for Diagram 36. 

From 12 to 24 is i J / 2 inch. Draw a straight line upward from 
24 for the lapel-seam edge as represented. 

R to 23 is 5 inches, or as style will determine for the run of 
the front below the end of the roll. Connect 23 and 24. 

(104) 




Diagram 47. 

(105) 



Establish the end of the roll according to style, and draw the 
crease-line towards a point -y\ inch forward of the front shoulder- 
point. 

Establish 19, 20, 21 and 22 according to style, and as explained 
for Diagram 36. 

At the bottom the lapel is 3 inches wide, or to style. Oppo- 
site the end of the roll it is the same as the line from 23 to 24 
is forward of the line from R to W opposite the end of the roll. 
Shape the outer edge of the lapel as represented, or to style. 

The Skirt. — Take another piece of paper and square forward 
and downward as from A to B and A to C. 

From A to B is y 2 inch less than from 9 to 10, 11 to 12 and the 
width of the lapel at the bottom. Square downward from B. 

I is half-way from A to G. I to X is 1 inch, when a consider- 
able amount of fullness is desired at the side. For plainer skirts 
see the explanations for Diagrams 18, 19 and 20. Shape the waist- 
seam from A through X, and 12 as represented. 

C to O is 2 l / 2 inches when the seat is 5 inches larger than the 
waist, J4 nicn more than 2 l / 2 inches for each inch that the differ- 
ence between the seat and waist is more than 5 inches and % 
inch less than 2 l / 2 inches for each inch that the difference is less 
than 5 inches. 

O to J is the same as I to X. Draw a straight line from A l / 2 
inch forward of J. 

A to Y is 24 inches. V to Z is 1 inch. Shape from A through 
J and Z as represented, and add 1 V A inch backward of A J Z for 
the plait. 

A to L is the same as the length of the back-skirt. G to M is 
the same as G to X. M to D is the same as I to X. 

Draw a straight line from ( \ through 1) and make G to N the 
same as A to L. 



(106) 



NOTES. 

(Continued from page 33.) 

For tall slender forms it is well to draft the coat at least one 
size larger than the measures, as for a 34 breast draft 36, in- 
creasing the waist and seat a like amount, the back and front- 
scye depths, blade and back-waist l / 2 inch, the over-shoulder 1 
inch, and ^2 back-width ^4 inch. 

Take pains and time when measuring and save time in alter- 
ations. 

The width of the backpart of a sack-coat is a matter of style. 
For a close-fitting coat it should be less in width than when only 
moderately shaped in at the waist. For loose-fitting coats it 
may be made wider than as shown on the diagrams for sack 
coats. 

Experience alone will give knowledge of the peculiarities of 
the different materials used. Some are soft and spongy, and 
work large. Others work small, particularly the cheaper grades 
of worsteds and silk mixtures. For the class of goods first men- 
tioned and closely woven cloths, cut inside of the chalk-marks, 
and for the latter class cut well outside. 

Always work with well sharpened' chalk. Be precise in all 
matters. Follow the maxim, "Make haste slowly." 

Begin this study at the beginning, not at the middle nor 
finish. 

Familiarize yourself by careful and repeated readings with 
the instructions for taking the measures. 

Should difficulties arise, as for example you find that, as a 
rule, coats are a little full through the blades or in the breast. 
In such case you should at once take the measures a little closer 
than formerly across the blade and around the breast. In brief, 
do not depart from the system as taught for drafting, but take 
the measures easier or closer as may be required. 

Place yourself under the instruction of a practical tailor and 
learn how to make a garment. See that your bushelman has the 
qualifications of a first-class workman. 

(107) 



THREE-QUARTER OR MILITARY CAPE. 
Diagram 48. 

C ELECT a coat pattern of the size required over which the cape 

is to be worn and proceed as follows : 

Draw a straight line as A B. 

Lay the pattern of the backpart to touch the line at A, and ]/ 2 
inch forward of it at the waist line as represented by the broken 
lines. Mark from A to C. 

Lay the pattern of the forepart with the shoulder seam Y / 2 
inch from that of the backpart, and mark from D to E and 
towards F. Connect A and E. 

G is half-way from A to E. Square out from G. 

G to H is 2y 2 inches. A to B is the length. 

Pivot at H and sweep from y 2 inch above B towards F. Shape 
the bottom from B. This establishes F. 

From the center-of-front line E F such changes may be made 
( by adding or taking off) as may be required by the current 
style. 

Any style of collar may be applied to the neck as may be 
desired the same as for a coat. 



(108) 




Diagram 48. 



(109) 



HALF-CIRCLE CAPE. 

Diagram 49. 

THE pattern for a three-quarter circle cape of the size required, 
and which has been drafted as explained for the preced- 
ing diagram, is represented by points A B D E and F. 

C is half-way from B to F. Connect C and D (the front- 
shoulder point). 

D to G is T 4 breast. 

Now lay this pattern over another piece of paper and mark 
from A towards B and from A to D. Place a pencil-point at G 
and swing the pattern until the center-of-front line E F is about 
square with the line A B. D is now at K. Mark by the pattern. 
This gives the heavy lines from K to J and H. 

Connect K and G, and add a seam's width at D and K as 
represented. 

A to B is the length. 

Square backward by the line A B from J to establish N. 

N to P is 1 inch. Pivot at P and sweep from B to establish H. 



(no) 



Q F 




igram 49. 



(Ill) 



CLOSE CAPE. 

Diagram 50. 

HpAKE a pattern for a coat of the size required, lay the forepart 
and backpart over another piece of paper in the same posi- 
tion as when drafted, and mark the breast-line, also along the 
back-center, shoulder, scye, front-shoulder, and gorge as repre- 
sented by the broken lines. Mark the rever crease-line at the 
gorge, and underneath mark the button-line. 

Draw a straight line from A to the bottom of the back-center 
and remove the pattern. 

A to C is y 2 inch more than the length. 

D to E is }/ 2 inch. Pivot 1 inch forward of E and sweep 
forward from y 2 inch above C towards H. Shape the seam from 
E through F and the middle of the scye, as at G, as represented. 

Square downward from F by the breast-line to establish J. 

From the outer shoulder point X to O is iy 2 inch. P is about 
1 inch more than half-way from O to the breast-line. 

N to Q is 1 inch. Shape from P 'to O and P to O. 

J to K is the same as J to G. Shape the front-shoulder from 
M to O and from through K towards L, which is as much 
back of the line falling from J as H is forward of it. 

N to O and Q to L is ]/ 2 inch more than E to H. Pivot 1 inch 
forward of M and sweep forward from L. 

The front edge is shaped below M to clear the rever crease- 
line, and thence just back of the button-line to the bottom. 

Make a tracing of the backpart and cut it out all except across 
the bottom. Then lay the backpart in closed position with the 
front, H touching L, and reshape the bottom of both parts from 
C to R as may be necessary to give good form across the bottom. 
This gives S and T. 



( I 12) 




Marram of) 



( 113) 



HOOD. 

Diagram 51. 

TTAKE a coat-pattern of the size required, lav the pattern for the 
backpart to touch a straight line as at B and x / 2 inch from 
tiie line at the waist, as at D. Mark from B to G and along the 
shoulder seam. 

Lav the forepart pattern with the shoulder seam touching the 
back-shoulder as represented by the broken lines and mark along 
the gorge to the center-of-front at H. 

B to E is the length. E to D is 1/6 breast. Square across 
from B and D. 

B to L is % inch more than 1/3 breast. Square upward from 
L. H to J is 1 inch. Sweep from J pivoting at G to establish K. 

D to O is y 2 breast. O to P is 2 inches, or to style. Draw a 
straight line from K to P. M is 1 inch less than half-way from 
K to P. M to N is 1 inch. Shape the front edge from H 
through K and N to P. Connect E and P. 

B to E is cut on a fold of the material. A hem is usually 
added from H to P in which a draw string is inserted. 

The hood does not always extend to the center-of-front at H. 
It may be reduced 1 inch or more as from H to J. The shape 
of the neck seam (B to J or H) is as required when the hood 
is worn with a coat that buttons to the neck. Y\ nen the coat 
has revers the hood should be shaped from B through G to K. 

When the hood is to be worn over a cape t"ne cape should 
first be drafted as explained for Diagram 48. Then lay paper 
underneath the cape pattern, get the lines B E and B H by the 
cape, and proceed as above explained. 

To draft a hood independent of the coat pattern proceed as 
follows : 

Draw a straight line as A E. 

A to B is y 2 inch more than 1/3 breast. 

B to E is the length. E to D is 1/6 breast. Square across 
from A B and D. 

D to O is y 2 breast. O to P is 2 inches, or to style. 

B to F is 1/6 breast. B to L is T 4 inch more than 1/3 breast. 
Square upward from F and L. 

F to G is 1/24 breast. H is at the center-of-front. H to J is 
1 inch, more or less, as desired. 

(114) 



Q is half-way from G to j. Q to R is i inch. Shape the 
neck seam from B through G and R to J or H as represented. 

Pivot at G and sweep from J to establish K. 

For a coat or cape which closes at the throat, the neck of the 
hood is shaped as above explained. But where there are revers 
it is shaped from B to K. 

Shape the front edge from H, J or K through N to P and 
connect E and P. 




Diagram 51. 



(us) 



HpHE accompanying table will be found to be well adapted for 
* the production of proportionate patterns and as a guide to cor- 
rect measurements. The measures for a man of any breast size, 
whose height is in proportion to his breast, will not differ materi- 
ally from those given on the table, unless he differs in develop- 
ment from a normal or average form. For one who is stooping- 
shouldered, the blade and back-scye depth will be more and the 
front-depth less than as on the table. For one who has high 
shoulders, the front and back depths will both be less, and for 
one with low shoulders more than as on the table. The table 
furnishes a basis appropriate for a form of normal or average 
development. 

In the first row of figures are given heights ranging from 64 
to j6 inches. In the next row are the breast sizes appropriate 
for the several heights. Then follows the w r aist, and seat sizes, 
and other lengths and widths. 

The cutter is sometimes required to cut from a few funda- 
mental measures as height, breast, waist and seat. Without a 
basis of good, safe proportionate measure he would not be able 
to meet such requirements. 

Extensive businesses are being carried on confined exclu- 
sively to the making of custom clothing by the use of these funda- 
mental proportionate measures only, and they are conducted 
with a smaller per cent of misfits and at less cost for alterations 
than under the conditions which too often prevail in custom cut- 
ting. The table furnishes a safe basis by which the cutter can 
produce suitable patterns for either proportionate or dispropor- 
tionate forms, also block patterns. He will find it to be of great 
service, and almost a necessity, in a business of much magnitude. 

HOW TO USE THE TABLE FOR PROPORTIONATE 

FORMS. 

(Taking height, breast, waist and seat only.) 

A PROPORTIONATE form is one whose height, breast, waist, 
seat, attitude, slope of shoulder and general development are 
the same as for a normal or average form of any given breast 
size. 

To draft a proportionate pattern the breast, waist and seat 
measures and the height only are required. 

To obtain the measures by which to draft a coat for a man of, 
say, 38 breast, and of proportionate height, 70 inches, reference 
to the table, to the column of figures under 70 in the height row, 
gives the measures as follows. 38 breast, 34 waist, 39 seat, 7^ 
half-back width, 8-vi back-scye depth, 17 natural waist, ny 2 blade, 

(116) 



PRACTICAL WORKING TABLE 
of PROPORTIONATE MEASURES 



Height 64 

Breast over Vest 32 

Waist " " '28 

Seat 33 

Half- Back Width 6j 

Back-Depth 8 

Natural Waist 15! 

To Seat Line 22i 

To Crotch 25| 

To Center of Thigh ! 32 

To Top of Knee 371 

To Sole of Foot 56 

i 
Blade 10 

Front-Depth 11| 

Over- Shoulder 15| 

Sleeve 17! 

Back-Waist 6f 

Arm-Scye ; 15 

Neck (Coats to button at).. . . j 15! 

Sleeve at Cuff 11-J- 

Sleeve at Elbow 14 



66 


68 


70 


72 


74 


! 

76 


34 


36 


38 


40 


42 


^4 


30 


32 


34 


37 


40 


42 


35 


37 


39 


41 


43 


45 


61 


7- 1 

* 8 


7% 


75. 

' 8 


n 


81 


H 


8! 


8f 


9 


91 


H 


16 


16! 


17 


17! 


18 


18! 


23f 


24f 


251 


261 


26* 


27! 


261 


27 


27f 


28! 


29! 


30 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


38 


38| 


39! 


40} 


41| 


42* 


44 


57f 


59! 


61! 


63 


64f 


66! 


10i 


11 


ii! 


12 


12! 


13 


HI 


121 


121 


131 


13! 


141 


16! 


17 


17! 


181 


18f 


19! 


18 


18| 


19! 


20 


20 1 


211 


71 


73 


8! 


9 


n 


101 


15! 


101 


16| 


17! 


18 


181 


16 


17 


18 


19 


19* 


20! 


12 


12! 


13 


13! 


141 


15! 


15 


16 


17 


18 


18! 


19 



46 
44 

47 
81 
9:] 

19 



48 
46 
49 
8f 
10 
19! 



13! 



15 

20! 

io 3 4 

19! 
21! 
151 



19! 



14 

15! 

21 

HI 

20 

22 

161 
20 



("7) 



12^4 front-scye depth, iy l / 2 over-shoulder, 19^ sleeve, 8% back- 
waist, i6y 2 arm-scye, etc. The table also gives the length to the 
seat-line (the most prominent part), and the lengths to the crotch, 
center-of-thigh, top of knee and sole of foot, by which the length 
can be regulated to any part of the body according to style re- 
quirements. 

HOW TO USE THE TABLE FOR DISPROPORTIONATE 

FORMS. 

(Taking height, breast, waist and seat only.) 

A DISPROPORTIONATE form is one which differs material- 
ly from the measurements as given on the table. It may be 
in height, waist, seat or in attitude. As for example, a form of 
68 inches in height, 40 breast, 40 waist and 43 seat. An observa- 
tion of the shape may, or may not, indicate that the shoulders are 
more or less sloping, that the blades are more or less full, or that 
the attitude is different from an average form. 

Take for example a form of the height and sizes as given 
above with blade, slope of shoulder and attitude not noticeably 
different from an average form. In that case select from the 
table the lengths to the natural-waist,- seat-line, length of coat 
and sleeve from the column of figures in which 68 is given as 
height. The back-waist is as given in the column in which 40 
is found as the waist size. All the remaining measures except the 
seat are as found in the column in which the breast size 40 is 
given. The measures to be used when drafting will then be as 
follows : 40 breast, 40 waist, 43 seat, yY% half-back width, 9 back- 
scye depth, i6 T /2 natural-waist, 24-V4 seat-line, 39^ top-of-knee, 
12 blade, 13*4 front-scye depth, i8>4 over-shoulder, 18^ sleeve, 
9^4 back-waist, 17^ arm-scye, etc. 

The shoulders may be either higher or more sloping, more 
erect or more stooping, and the blades may be flatter or fuller 
than an average form of any given breast size. In the absence of 
direct measures intelligently taken, or when drafting by the 
fundamental measures only, the changes to be made are gov- 
erned by a careful observation of the shape of the form. 

When the shoulders are high, the back and front depths are 
each shortened one or two degrees of J4 mcn each, as may seem 
to be necessary. 

When the shoulders are low, then the back-depth and front- 
depth are each lengthened one or two degrees of % inch each, 
as may seem to be required. 

When the shoulders are high and more erect than for an 
average form, then two changes are required. First, the back 

(it8) 



and front-scye depths are each shortened one or two degrees of 
% inch each for high shoulders, and second, the changed front- 
depth is now lengthened one or two degrees of *4 inch each for 
erectness, and the changed back-depth is still further shortened 
the same amount. 

When the shoulders are erect and low, the hack and front 
depths are each first lengthened one or two degrees for the in- 
creased slope of shoulders. The changed front-depth is then 
increased, and the back-depth is decreased each one or two 
degrees of % inch for erectness. 

When the shoulders are high and stooping the back and 
front-depths are first shortened one or two degrees for less slope 
of shoulder. The changed back-depth is then lengthened and 
the front-depth shortened each one or two degrees for stooping 
shoulders. 

When the shoulders are more sloping and stooping than as 
for the average form, the back and front depths are each length- 
ened one or two degrees for sloping shoulders. The changed 
back-depth is then lengthened, and the front-depth shortened 
each one or two degrees for stooping shoulders. 

For a form of any height or breast, if flatter through the 
blades than the average form, reduce the blade size as found 
on the table, one, two or three degrees of ]/\ inch each as may 
seem to be necessary. If, on the other hand, the blades are 
noticeably fuller than for the average form, then increase the 
blade size one, two or three degrees. 

To illustrate further, let us consider what changes would be 
required to arrange a set of measures for a man of 70 inches 
in height, 36 breast, 31 waist and 37 seat. An observation of the 
shape indicates that he is say one degree erect, the shoulders are 
one degree high, and the blades are two degrees flat. 

To find the measures by which to draft, say, a sack-coat for 
this man, proceed as follows : 

First write down the formula for a proportionate form of 
36 breast as found on the table and as given in the first row of 
figures below. 

68; 36; 32; 37; yy s ; 8y 2 ; 16^; 24^;—; 11 ; 12% ; 17; i8y 4 ;7^. 
/o;36;3t;37;6^;8M; 17 ; 25^30; 103^; 11%; 17; t 9 ^;7^- 

8 T2^ 

Place under the proportionate height the customer's height, 
70 inches, under the waist 32, place his waist size 31. Next con- 
sider the front and back depths. These must be treated on the 
basis of the proportionate height of 68 inches, without regard to 
the height of the customer. His increased height of 2 inches 
afTects the lengths from the collar-seam to waist, and from under 

(119) 



the arm to the waist only, both of which are longer than for a 
form whose height is in proportion to breast, providing of course 
that the slope of shoulder is the same as for the average form. So 
that, as the shoulders are one degree high, the front and back- 
depths are each shortened )/\ inch. This gives 8% for the back- 
depth, which place under &y 2 , and ii^s for the front-depth, which 
place under 12^. 

He is also one degree erect. The changed back-depth must 
now be shortened another l /\ inch. This gives 8, which we place 
under Sy. The front-depth must also be lengthened J /\ inch for 
one degree erect. This gives i2 T /8 again, which is placed under 

Next find the length to the natural-waist and seat-line in the 
column of figures on the table in which 70 inches is given as 
height. These are respectively 17 and 25^. Place these respec- 
tively under 16^2 and 24.)^. 

The fashionable length is, say, 2*4 inches below the crotch. 
Cn the table we find, for a form 70 inches in height, that from 
the collar-seam to the crotch is 27^4 inches. So the length is 
fixed as 30 inches, which is placed in its proper order. 

In the column for 70 inches height the sleeve length is given 
as 19^2 inches, which place under 18%. 

The blade is two degrees flat. So deduct y 2 inch from the 
proportionate size. This gives 10^2, which is placed under 11. 

The breast, seat, over-shoulder and arm-scye are the same 
as for a proportionate form. 

The half-back width is increased or decreased one-half of 
the increase or decrease of the blade. So that in this case it is 
decreased % inch. This gives 6%, which place under j l /%. 

The back-waist is the same as for a form of 31 waist, j l / 2 
inches. Place this under 734. 

The measures as used when drafting will then be as follows : 
36; 3 1 ; 37 \ 6 H< 8; 17; 25^; 30; ioy 2 ; 12^; 17; 19^; yy 2 . 

It will be observed in this case that shortening the front- 
depth one degree for high shoulder, and then lengthening it for 
one degree erect, leaves this length as it was originally. The 
back-depth has been shortened y 2 inch (y inch for one degree 
high shoulders and y inch for one degree erect). 

All the sizes given on the table are make-up sizes. To these 
allowances are made for seams and ease as previously explained. 



(120) 




THE MEASURING DEVICE. 



TPHE accompanying cnt shows the adjustment of the removable 
arm "S" for measuring the left side. The portion of a tape- 
measure is fastened to the end of the spring "R" at I, and must 
be so adjusted that when a drafting-square is laid along the arm 
or spring "R" with the angle of the square against "Q," the 
figures on the tape will be directly opposite the corresponding- 
figures on the drafting-square. 

Underneath is shown the reverse-side of the device. To the 
swivel "X" is fastened another portion of a tape-measure so 
adjusted to the swivel that when the drafting-square is laid up- 
ward along the edge marked "Q" with the angle of the square 
even with the arm "S" the figures on the tape will be directly 
opposite the corresponding figures on the square. 

When occasion arises that the right side is to be measured, 
reverse the position of the movable arm so that the swivel will 
be on the side of the device towards you (the side shown on the 
left of the cut). 

(121) 



HOW TO MEASURE. 
The Breast Measure. 
HpHIS measure should be taken fairly close, over the vest, the 
tape passing well up over the blades. Observe that the client 
breathes naturally, and does not expand the chest. 

The Waist Measure. 

This measure should be taken fairly close, over the vest at the 
natural-waist, straight around the body. 

The Seat Measure. 

This measure should be taken fairly close, over the trousers 
at the most prominent part of the seat, the pockets having been 
relieved of any bulky matter, and the client standing with heels 
together. 

The Half-Back Width. 

This measure is taken from the center-of-back about 3 inches 
above the back-scye depth to the sleeve seam directly opposite. 

Now place the measuring-device under the left arm in the 
position shown on Figure 1. The edge lettered "Q" rests against 
the front shoulder, and is in perpendicular position. The arm 
lettered "S" just touches the bottom of the scye. It is held in 
this position by allowing the pointed end "T" to slightly puncture 
the vest at the side of the waist. Being quite certain that the 
device is in the position described, and the arm "S" is level with 
the floor, extend the tape which is attached at "1" straight across 
the blade, and make a light chalk-mark on the upper edge of the 
tape at the center-of-back^ as at B. 

Make a mark at the natural-waist and center-of-back as at C. 

Make a mark at the collar-seam and center-of-back, as at A. 
This should be about 1 inch below where it is desired that the 
crease-edge of the collar shall be. 

Back-Scye Depth. 

Place the end of the tape-measure at the mark made for the 
collar-seam A, and measure to the mark made at the depth-of- 
scye, B. 

Length to Natural-Waist. 

Still holding the tape at the collar-seam measure to the mark 
made at the natural-waist, C. 

(122) 



Seat-Line. 

Still holding the tape at the collar-seam measure to the most 
prominent part of the seat, D. 

Length. 

Still holding the tape at the collar-seam measure for the full 
length desired. 

The Blade Measure. 

Extend the tape which is attached at "i" and take the meas- 
ure from the front of scye to the center-of-back, B, as shown on 
Figure I. (The center-of-back should be located accurately. Do 
not be misled by the position of the center-back seam of the 
vest, which may be drawn to one side of the center-of-back.) 

Front-Scye Depth. 

Extend the tape which is attached to the swivel upward over 
the front shoulder and take an easy measure to the collar seam 
A at centre-of-back, as shown on Figure 2. 

Over-Shoulder Measure. 

Extend the same tape over the middle of the shoulder in a 
direct line to the mark made for the back-scye depth and at the 
center-of-back, B. This must be an easy measure. It is shown 

on Figure 3. 

The Sleeve. 

Extend the tape which is attached to the swivel downward 
and measure to within 1 inch of the knuckle-joint of the thumb 
for the sleeve length. 

Back-Waist. 

Place the end of the tape-measure opposite the back-edge of 
the measuring-device lettered "Q" at the natural-waist and 
measure straight across to the center-of-back and natural-waist. 
C, as shown on Figure 5. Remove the measuring device. 

Arm-Scye. 

This measure is taken easy around over the shirt at the junc- 
ture of arm and body as shown on Figure 6. 



(123) 




FIG.1 






FIG.4. 



(124) 





FIG. 6. 



CLERICAL COATS, ETC. 



For all coats that close at the neck two additional measures 
are required, viz., half-size of neck and depth of gorge. For the 
first place the end of the tape-measure at the collar-seam and 
center-of-back and measure close around over the vest to the 
front-center at the depth desired for the front of the gorge. 
Then, still holding the tape as before, bring it down to the 
center-of-front just below the breast-line. Hold it there, release 
it from the back of the neck and extend it directly upward and 
call off the figures on the tape where it intersects with the point 
first established for the half-size of neck. 

Notes. — Notice if one shoulder is more sloping than the other 
and make memoranda of any peculiarities in the shape which 
are not indicated by the measures. 

For frock-coats the measure to the seat-line is omitted. 

Always bear in mind that the breast, waist and seat measures 
are to be taken fairly close, but not tight. All other measures 
are to be taken just fair, or easy measures. 

(125) 



VESTS. 

Besides the breast, waist, back-scye depth, front-scye depth, 
blade, over-shoulder and back-waist measures as taken for a coat, 
the following additional measures are required, viz. : 

Place the end of the tape-measure at the center-of-back and 
collar-seam, bring it over the front-shoulder and measure to the 
point at the center-of-front where you desire the opening to be. 
Then, still holding the tape at the back of the neck, extend it 
down past the front of the arm and measure to the natural-waist 
at the side. Then, still holding the tape at the back of the neck, 
measure to the length desired at the center-of-front. Take all 
measures in as direct lines as possible. 

For corpulent forms an additional measure may be taken on 
a line from the center-of-back at the natural-waist all around the 
body direct to the front-length. 

For clerical vests take the half-size of neck and depth of 
gorge in the same manner as explained for clerical coats except 
that they are taken under the vest. 

TROUSERS. 

Relieve the pockets of any bulky matter ; draw the trousers 
well up in the crotch (having the client hold them there by the 
suspenders), and see that the private parts are dressed either 
right or left. 

Place the end of the tape-measure just over the right hip- 
bone and measure first to the knee and then on to the heel-seam 
of the shoe for the outside seam. 

Then place the end of the tape with the left hand close up 
under the crotch, and measure to the heel-seam of the shoe for 
the inside seam. 

Take the waist measure fairly close over the waistband and 
just above the hip bone. 

Take a fairly close seat measure over the largest part. 

Take the sizes for knee and bottom according to the prevailing 

style. 

For corpulent forms an additional measure may be taken to 
find the height in front by placing the end of the tape at the 
height desired for the waistband seam at the center-of-front, 
and measuring in a direct line to the heel-seam on the outside 
of the shoe. Apply this measure when drafting from the bottom 
of the outside seam upward to the center-of-front. 

When close-fitting legs are in vogue, take an intermediate 
measure at the largest part of the thigh and another around the 

(126) 



calf of the leg-, noting the distances below the waist where these 
measures are taken. 

Consult the client and learn his wishes in regard to their 
being close or easy at the seat and waist, and make memorandum. 
If easy, make the increase when drafting. Do not take the 
measures sometimes close and sometimes easy. 

SINGLE-BREASTED NO COLLAR AND NOTCH-COLLAR 

VESTS. 

Diagram 52. 

yHE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as fol- 
lows, viz. : 34 breast, 30 waist, 8^2 back-scye depth, i6y nat- 
ural waist, 10% blade, 11^ front-scye depth, i6y over-shoulder, 
7>4 back-waist, 12 opening, 19V2 side-length to natural-waist, 26 
front-length. 

To Draft. 

Square the lines A D and A F. 

Place the end of the tape-measure % inch below A, and mark 
the back-scye depth at B and the natural-waist at C. 

Point 1 is half-way from B to A. Square across from 1, B and 
C. 

C to E is l / 2 inch. Shape from A through B and E, rounding 
outward a trifle between A and B and inward a trifle from B to E 
as represented. 

A to F is 1/6 breast. F to 2 is 1/24 breast. 

B to G is the blade. G to H is y inch. G to 3 is 2 inches. 

G to J is \y_\ inch more than 1/6 breast. 

B to K is a full half of the breast. K to L is 2 i y 2 inches. 

Square upward from 3 and J and downward from G. 

E to O is y 2 inch more than y 2 waist. P is half-way from B 
to L. Shape the sideseam from P through O towards Z as 
represented. 

Connect 2 and J. From 2 to 4 is y breast. Shape the scye 
from 4 to the bottom of the scye, sinking it y 2 inch below P. 

H to Q is y inch more than the front-scye depth. H to R 
i.- y inch more than the over-shoulder. Pivot at H and sweep 
forward from 0. 

Connect H and O to establish 5. Pivot at 5 and sweep back- 
ward from R. 

M to X is the back-waist. X to U is a full half of the waist. 
[J to V is 2% inches. 

Cut out the backpart and lay point 2 on the line above J, 

(127) 



A on the sweep-line from Q, and B on the sweep-line from R, 
as at the light-center circled disk. This establishes S. Connect 
the circled disk and 5. 

Establish 6, Y\ inch from the back-shoulder, and draw a 
straight line from S through 6. S to 7 is the same as 2 to 4. 
Finish the scye below 7 as represented. 

Place the end of the tape-measure at O, and extend it through 
S. Pivot it at S and sweep at T, 2 inches more than the open- 
ing, at X, 1 inch more than the side-length to natural waist, at 
Y, 3 inches below X, and at W, 1 inch more than the front- 
length. 

V to X is 1 inch more than y 2 waist. Shape the sideseam 
from P through X springing out towards Y. Shape the front 
below T and the bottom as represented, or to style. 

P to Z is ^4 inch more than P to Y. C to D is 1 inch less 
than O to Z. 

S to 10 is 1 inch. For a vest with a flat collar, shape the open- 
ing from 10 to T and continue the line up towards 9 as repre- 
sented by the heavy line. S to 8 is the same as A to 2. From 9 
to 8 is 1 inch. Cut out the forepart all except on the shoulder- 
seam, space for the buttons and locate the pockets as represented. 

To draft the collar lay the pattern of the forepart over an- 
other piece of paper and mark by it from 9 to T and just past 
T. Also mark from 9 to 8 and remove the pattern. Shape the 
leaf-edge below 8 to Vo inch below T to taste or style, and cut 
the shoulder from 7 to 10. 

For a collarless vest the projection from 10 to 9, 9 to 8 and 8 
to the shoulder-seam is cut whole with the forepart. Shape the 
front from 9 to T as represented by the broken line. 

Add -V4 inch forward of T and W to the right side for a but- 
ton-stand as represented by the broken lines. 



(128] 




Diagram 52. 



(129) 



SINGLE-BREASTED VEST. 

Diagram 53. 

HTHIS vest differs from the one shown on the preceding dia- 
gram only in style. 

The backpart is drafted in the same manner as explained 
for Diagram 52. 

All the points on the forepart, excepting 2, 3 and 4 are ob- 
tained in the same manner as for Diagram 52. 

Establish points 2, 3 and 4 and shape the collar and front 
according to style. 

The under collar, which is defined by points 8, 9, 2, 3 and 
just below L is made of silesia or farmers-satin and cut in one 
piece. The collar facing may be cut whole, but to secure the 
effect of a coat collar is sometimes made in two sections by 
cutting the outside, or facing part, across as represented by the 
broken line from 3 to 4. 



(130) 




Diagram 53. 



(130 



DOUBLE-BREASTED VEST. 
Diagram 54. 

THE backpart is drafted as explained for Diagram 52. 

All the points on and above the breast-line, excepting L, 2, 3, 
4, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 are obtained as explained for Diagram 52. 

All the points on and below the waist-line excepting V and X 
are obtained as explained for Diagram 52. 

K to L is 2 inches. U to V is iji inches. Connect L and V. 
The line L V is the center-of-front. V to X is *4 inch more 
than y 2 waist. 

The width and shape of the front forward of the line L V is 
governed entirely by taste or style. In this instance point 7 
has been established 6 inches forward of L, and an outward 
curved line drawn from 7 to the sweep-line at W as a guide line 
approximating as near as possible the run of the front according 
to the style we are trying to copy. 

Establish the end of the roll on this line according to style, 
and draw the crease-line from the end of the roll y 2 inch forward 
of S. 

Establish points 2, 3, 4 and 5 according to style, and as ex- 
plained for coats. Shape the gorge from S to 5. This gives 6. 

Extend the crease-line towards 8, and make from opposite S 
to 8 the same as the width of the top of the backpart. Square 
each way from 8. From 8 to 9 is 1 inch. Shape the collar from 
9 to 6, make the leaf i T 4 inch wide at the back and to style 
at the front end. 

From the center-of-front line to the button-line is }4 i ncn 
less than to the front edge. Finish as represented. 

Styles are constantly changing. Correct principles do not 
change. Changes in style affect the length of roll, shape of the 
rever and collar, the width and shape of the front below the 
end of the roll. No matter what the shape may be, establish W 
on the sweep-line in its style position, make the width opposite 
the end of the roll also to style, and proceed as above explained. 



(*32) 




Diagram 54. 



(133) 



CLERICAL VESTS. 

Diagrams 55 and 56. 

PVlAGRAM 55. — The backpart and all the points on the fore- 
part are obtained in the same manner as explained for Dia- 
gram 52. 

Diagram 56. — The backpart and all the points on the fore- 
part, excepting 1, 2, 3 and R are obtained as explained for Dia- 
gram 52. 

Q to R is )/\ breast. (R corresponds to 12 on the preceding- 
vest diagrams.) Square forward from R. 

Sweep from L to Q, finding a pivot as at I just below B on 
Diagram 52. This establishes the unlettered point on the line 
squared forward from R. 

For the average form point 1 is ]/ 2 inch below and backward 
of the unlettered point. The two measures for half-size of neck 
and depth of gorge should be applied to establish 1, as follows: 

Place the width at the top of the backpart at S and extend 
the tape-measure in a direct line to the center-of-front as to V. 
Hold it at V, release it from S, and extend it upward on the 
center-of-front. Make a short sweep at l / 2 inch above the meas- 
ure for depth-of-gorge. 

Place the width of the top of the backpart again at S and 
apply the measure for half-size of neck and Yi inch more along 
the line of the gorge to a point on the first sweep for depth-of- 
gorge. The intersection of the two measures establishes 1. 

Point 1 is at the center-of-front. (See "How to Measure.") 

The collar is shaped rounding about Y\ inch from a straight 
line from 1 to 2. S to 2 is the same as the width of the top 
of the backpart. From 2 to 3 is 1 ! /J inch. 

Two front lengths and shapes are shown on these diagrams. 



(•34) 




Diagram 55. 



Diagram 56. 



C35) 



SINGLE-BREASTED VEST. 

(Corpulent Form.) 

Diagram 57. 

A LL the points, excepting 11 and 13, are obtained in the same 
manner as explained for Diagram 52. 

X to 11 is y 2 inch when the waist is as large as the breast, 
Y% inch less for each inch that the waist is smaller than the 
breast, and % inch more for each inch that the waist is larger 
than the breast. 

Y to 13 is ]A inch more than X to 11. 

Two styles of collar are shown on the diagram, a flat collar, 
represented by the heavy lines, and a creased-shawl collar, by the 
broken lines. 

For the flat collar the shoulder-point is advanced 1 inch as 
from S to 10. Obtain points 8 and 9, and shape the collar as 
represented, or to style. 

For the creased collar, or collar with stand and leaf, the 
crease-line is drawn through S. This is represented by the 
broken lines. 

Whenever a collar with a stand is used, then the front- 
shoulder point remains at S. The collar-seam-edge of the fore- 
part is shaped as represented by the broken curved line from S 
to just above T. 

Make the stand 1 inch wide at the back, and the leaf 1% 
inch wide. 

Two lengths and shapes are shown in front. 



(136) 




Diagram 57. 



{+37) 



CASSOCK VEST. 

Diagram 58. 

THE backpart and all points on the forepart, excepting 1, 2, 4, 
■ 5, 6, L. R, V, W, X and the unlettered point just above 6, are 
obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 52. 

K to L is 2 inches. U to V is 1% inch. Draw a straight line 
from L through V to W, and sweep from L to a point y 2 inch 
below Q, finding a pivot as at the unlettered point on the center- 
back. 

Q to R is 34 breast. Square forward from R. 

For an average form point 6 is established on the sweep-line 
V 2 inch below the light-centered disk at the intersection of the 
sweep-line with the line squared forward from R. The two 
measures for half-size of neck and depth-of-gorge should be 
taken and applied to establish 6, as explained for Diagram 56. 
(Point 6 corresponds to point 1 on Diagram 56.) 

Below L the forepart is usually cut on a fold of the material, 
in which case V to X is ^4 mcn more than y 2 waist. Sometimes 
it is cut with a seam at the center-of-front, and in such case add 
l / A inch from 6 to W for the seam. When there is to be a seam 
at the center-of-front, then it should be shaped from L to W, 
rounding slightly forward of a straight line as represented by 
the broken line. 

When the seam is omitted at the center-front, a V should 
be taken out at the bottom as represented. 

The opening is on the right side. The shaded part is sewn 
on to the right backpart, and the front extends over on the right 
side as represented by the line from 1 to 2 overlapping the 
shaded part. The fronts close on the line 1 to 2 with a narrow 
fly, and the buttons are spaced about 2 inches apart. 

From S to 1 is 1 inch. From Y to 2 is 3/j inch. From 1 to 4 
and from 2 to 5 are each 2 inches. 

The Collar. — Of the two diagrams which are shown on the 
backpart, the one at the left represents the collar as cut. The 
center-of-front at 4 is cut on a fold of the material, and the 
opening is on the side at 3. The other diagram shows the collar 
as it appears when opened out, the crease being represented by 
the broken line at 4. 

From 4 to 3 is the same as the neck-gorge from 6 to 1. 

From 4 to 2, at the extreme right on the diagram, is the full 
size of the neck, less the quantity from 4 to 3. 

Add ij4 inch beyond 2 for a button-stand. 

(138) 




Diagram 58. 



(139) 



SINGLE-BREASTED DRESS VEST. 

Diagram 59. 

HTHE backpart and all the points on the forepart, excepting 2, 
are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 52. 
From 8 through S to 2 is •}! inch more than the measure for 
the opening. Shape the flat collar as represented. 

The shoulder-seam extends across from 10. The under-collar, 
made of farmers-satin or silk, is represented by all that part 
below 8 and 9 to 2. The facing is cut the same shape as the 
under collar, except that it is cut a seam's width wider below 8, 
and on the crease-edge below 9 it is cut sufficiently wider to turn 
and form a facing on the under side. It should be about 34 inch 
wider opposite 9, and gradually wider to about 1/2 or 2 inches 
wide at and below the top button. 

The Flat-Collar Facing — Fay the under-collar over another 
piece of paper and mark all around it as represented by the part 
which is heavy shaded and defined by points 2, 3 and 4. 

Lay the pattern for the forepart in closed position with the 
under-collar at 4. The position of the forepart is represented by 
broken lines. 

Add for the turn-ins, as represented by the heavy lines, at 
least Y\ inch beyond the end (2 to 3), and on the outer edge 
from 3 past 4 and 5. On the inner edge it should not be less 
than y 2 inch below 2 and gradually broadening to 1^2 inch op- 
posite and below 4. 

Whenever this facing is "Pieced," make the joining well be- 
low the top buttonhole. 



(140) 





Diagram 59. 



(MO 



TROUSERS. 

Diagrams 60 and 61. 

HTHE measures used for the accompanying diagrams are as 
follows, viz. : 24 waist to knee, 42 outside seam, 32 inseam, 32 
waist, 38 seat, 19^ knee, 16J/2 bottom. 

To Draft, 

Diagram 60. — The Forepart. 

Draw a straight line across the top and square downward as 
from the heavy circled disk at the hand. 

From the circled disk to G is the hip-rise. (The difference 
between the outside and inside seams), 10 inches for this draft. 
Square forward from G. 

G to H is / 2 seat, g l / 2 inches. H to I is 1/32 seat, full l / 2 
inch. H to J is j4 inch less than l /% seat, 2 T /$ inches. H to K 
is y A inch less than 1/6 seat, 2% inches. 

Square upward from H to establish L. Connect I and L. 

B is half-way from G to J. Square upward and downward 
from B. 

A to D is the knee-length, and on to F is the outside seam 
length. Square forward and backward from D and F. 

A to O is x /\ waist, 4 inches. I to N is 1/6 seat, 3*4 inches. 
G to 1 is the same as I to N. Connect N and 1. This establishes 
M. Shape from O through M to J, and through N to K ns 
represented. 

O to P is y 2 waist, 8 inches. D to Q and D to R are each 
% knee, 4% inches. 

Deduct 3 inches from the size for the bottom and place one- 
half of the remainder divided equally on each side of F. This 
gives S and T each 3^ inches from F for this draft. 

Shape the sideseam from P through G and Q to T, and the 
inseam from J and from K through R to S as represented. 

F to 2 depends upon the sizes of the foot and bottom of the 
trousers. On the diagram F to 2 is i l / 2 inch. Shape the bottom 
as represented, shortening the same for this style T 4 inch above 
S and T. 

Cut out the forepart and make notches at G, Q and R. 

Diagram 61. — The Backpart. 

Lay the pattern for the forepart over another piece of paper, 
extend the line upward above B, and the cross lines at the 
knee and bottom. 

Pivot at G and sweep backward from ]/ 2 inch below P towards 
4- 

(142) 




Diagram 61. 



Diagram 60. 



(143) 



B to V is 2/3 seat, 12^ inches. Square forward from V. 

V to 3 is 1/12 seat, ify& inch. From 3 to W is 1/24 seat, 
full Y\ inch. Connect J and V to establish X. Connect W and X. 

M to 1 on the forepart and X to 6 is a full half of the seat, 
19 inches. From 6 to 7 is iV 2 inch. 

H to the sweep-line at Y is 34 seat > 4 :, 4 inches. R to 13 
is 1 inch. From 13 to Y is ]A inch less than R to K on the 
forepart.. 

Point 9 is half-way from Q to 13. Draw a straight line from 
B through 9 to establish 12. 

S to 2 and 12 to 16 is ]/ 2 inch more than a full half of the 
bottom. From 12 to 17 is the same as from 12 to 16. 

W to the sweep-line at 4 is 2 inches more than Y / 2 waist, 10 
inches. Connect W and 4. From 4 to 5 is % waist, 2 inches. 
From 5 to Z is ^ inch. 

Shape from W through X to Y, from Y through 13 to 16, and 
from 4 through 7 and Q to 17 as represented. 

Shape the top as represented. 

Shape the bottom, rounding l / 2 inch below 12 and 34 inch 
above 16 and 17. Cut the pattern and make notches at 13 and 
Q, also at 8, which is y 2 inch below G. 

Q to 8 and 13 to Y are to be stretched to equal Q to G and 
R to K on the forepart. 

The backpart should be w r ell shrunken between B and 9. 

The Waistband. — Draw a straight line as C D for the seam- 
edge. 

A to B is a full half of the waist. A to F is 23^2 inches. A to 
C is 2y 2 inches. B to D is 1 inch. B to E is 1^ inch. Make 
notches at A and B. 

For forms that carry the feet well together, see explanation 
for Diagrams 66 and 67. 

PEG-TOP TROUSERS. 

Diagrams 62 and 63. 

HTHE measures used for the accompanying diagrams are as 

follows: 

223/2 knee-length, 40 side-length, 41 front-length, 31 inseam, 
34 waist, 38 seat, 22 knee, 16 bottom. 

To Draft. 

Diagram 62. — The Forepart. 

Draw a straight line across at the top and square downward, 
a 5 from the heavy circled disk at the hand. 

(1 44 ) 




Diagram 63. 



iagram 62. 



(145) 



From the circled disk to G is the hip-rise. (The difference 
between the outside and inside seams.) Square forward from G. 

G to H is y 2 seat. H to I is 1/32 seat. H to J is >4 inch less 
than y seat. H to K is y inch less than 1/6 seat. 

Square upward from H to establish L. Connect L and I. 

B is half-way from G to J. Square upward and downward 
from B. 

A to D is the knee-length, and on to F is the outside-seam 
length. Square forward and backward from D and F. 

A to O is ^ waist. I to N is 1/6 seat. G to 1 is the same 
as I to N. Connect N and 1. This establishes M. Shape from 
O through M to J, and through N to K as represented. 

O to P is Y? waist. D to Q and D to R are each *4 knee. 

Deduct 3 inches from the size of the bottom and place one- 
half of the remainder divided equally on each side of F. This 
gives S and T each 3^ inches from F. 

T to O is the front-length. 

Shape the sideseam from P through G and Q to T, and the 
inseam from J and K through R and S as represented. 

The bottom is hollowed about 2 inches above F. Shape the 
bottom as represented, shortening *4 inch above S and T. 

Cut the forepart and make notches at G, Q and R. 

Diagram 63. — The Backpart. 

Lay the pattern for the forepart over another piece of paper ; 
extend the line above B, and the cross-lines at the knee and 
bottom. 

Pivot at G and sweep backward from ]/ 2 inch below P towards 

4- 

B to V is 2/^ seat. Square forward from V. V to 3 is 1/12 
seat. From 3 to W is 1/24 seat. Connect J and V to establish 
X. Connect W and X. 

M to 1 on the forepart, and X to 6 is a full half of the seat. 
From 6 to 7 is 2 inches, or 2^4 inches if more ease is desired. 
(You will note that this is more than as on Diagram 61.) 

H to the sweep-line at Y is y seat. R to 13 is 1 inch. From 
13 to Y is y 2 inch less than from R to K on the forepart. 

Point 9 is half-way from Q to 13. Draw a straight line 
from B through 9 to establish 12. 

From S to 2 and 12 to 16 is y 2 inch more than a full half of 
the bottom. From 12 to 17 is the same as 12 to 16. 

W to the sweep-line at 4 is 2 inches more than y 2 waist. 
Connect W and 4. From 4 to 5 is l /% waist. From 5 to Z is y 2 
inch. 

(146) 



Shape from W through X to Y, from Y through 13 to 16, 
and from 4 through 7 and Q to 17 as represented. 

Shape the top as represented. 

Shape the bottom rounding y 2 inch below 12 from *4 inch 
above 16 to %. inch above 17. 

Point 8 is l / 2 inch below G. Cut the pattern and make 
notches at 8, 13 and Q. 

From Q to 8 and from 13 to Y are to be stretched to equal Q 
tc G and R to K on the forepart. The backpart should be well 
shrunken between B and 9. 

The waistband is drafted in the same manner as explained 
for Diagrams 60 and 61. 

For forms that carry the feet more closely together than is 
usual, see the explanation for Diagrams 66 and 67. 

TROUSERS WITH CLOSE-FITTING LEGS AND SPRING- 
BOTTOMS. 

Diagrams 64 and 65. 

HTHE measures used for the accompanying diagrams are as fol- 
lows : 13 outside length to thigh, 24 to knee, 29 to calf, 42 out- 
side length, 42^/2 front-length, 32 inseam, 38 waist, 40 seat, 23 
thigh, 17 knee, \J calf, 20 bottom. 

To Draft. 

Diagram 64. — The Forepart. 

Draw a straight line across near the top of the paper and 
square downward as from the heavy circled disk marked by the 
hand. 

From the circled disk to G is the hip-rise. (The difference 
between the outside and inside lengths.) Square forward from G. 

G to H is y 2 seat. H to I 1/32 seat. H to J is 54 inch less 
than J/8 seat. H to K is Y^ inch less than 1/6 seat. Square up- 
ward from H to establish L and connect L and I. 

B is half-way from G to J. Square upward and downward 
from B. 

A to C is the length to the thigh. A to D is the length to 
the knee. A to E is the length to the calf. A to F is the out- 
side length. Square forward and backward from C, D, E and F. 

A to O is ]i waist. H to M is 1/6 seat. Square forward and 
backward from M. Shape from O through M to J, and through 
X to K as represented. 

O to P is l / 2 waist. G to 2 is l / 2 inch. 

D to Q and D to R are each l /4 knee. Connect G and Q. 

(147) 



Deduct 5 inches from the size of the bottom, and place one- 
half of the remainder divided equally on each side of F. This 
gives S and T. Connect Q and T. Connect R and S. 

Shape from P through 2 and O to T, and from J and K 
through R to S as represented. 

Shape the bottom from S to T as represented. 

T to O is the front-length. Shape from P to O as repre- 
sented. 

Cut the forepart and make notches at 2, Q and R. 

Diagram 65. — The Backpart. 

Lay the pattern for the forepart over another piece of paper ; 
extend the line above B and the cross lines at the thigh, knee, 
calf and bottom. 

Pivot at 2 and sweep backward from y 2 inch below P towards 

4- 

B to V is 2/3 seat. Square forward from V. 

V to 3 is 1/12 seat. From 3 to W is 1/24 seat. Connect J 
and V to establish X opposite N. Connect W and X. 

M to 1 on the forepart and X to 6 is a full half of the seat. 
From 6 to 7 is iy 2 inch. 

H to the sweep-line at Y is 34 seat. 

From 10 to 11 and 15 to 18 is 1 inch more than the thigh. 
R to 13 is 1 inch. From U to 14 and 19 to 20 is 1 inch more 
than the calf. 

Point 9 is half-way from O to 13. Draw a straight line from 
B through 9 to establish 12. 

S to F and 12 to 16 is y 2 inch more than a full half of the 
bottom. From 12 to 17 is the same as 12 to 16. 

From 13 to Y is y 2 inch less than R to K on the forepart. 

\Y to the sweep-line at 4 is 2 inches more than y 2 waist. Con- 
nect W and 4. From 4 to 5 is y waist. From 5 to Z is y 2 inch. 

Shape between all the points as represented. 

Point 8 is y 2 inch below 2. Cut the pattern and make 
notches at 8,. 13 and Q. 

From O to 8 and 13 to Y are to be stretched to equal Q to 2 
and R to K on the forepart. The backpart should be well 
shrunken between B and 9. 

The waistband is drafted in the same manner as explained 
for Diagrams 60 and 61. 

For forms that carry the feet more closely together than is 
usual, the lines below C on the forepart, and below B to 12 
on the backpart, should be drawn as explained for Diagrams 66 
and 67. 

(148) 



3 v 




12 p 

Diagram 65 



Diagram 64. 



(149) 



SOME VARIATIONS IN TROUSERS CUTTING. 

Diagrams 66 and 67. 

f\ N all the preceding diagrams the backseam has been drawn 
1/12 and 1/24 seat backward from V as from V to W. It 
should be thus drawn for forms that are flat at the seat, and for 
what may be called "walking trousers," in contradistinction to 
what may be called "sitting trousers." For persons who sit the 
most of the time, or who ride, or whose vocation requires much 
stooping-, as a laboring-man, the backseam should be drawn from 
V through X. So that it may be drawn either from V or as on 
this or the preceding diagrams, according to the shape and 
occupation or requirements of the wearer. 

Any unusual position of the feet, as for one who toes in, 
should be noticed, as also whether the feet are carried close 
together, or spread apart more than is usual, and provision must 
be made for these variations. 

It will be observed that on the preceding diagrams for trous- 
ers, the center of the backpart at the bottom is placed at point 
12, which is about right for the average form. But for one who 
toes inward the center of the backpart at the bottom should be 
as on this diagram, directly under the center of the forepart 
as indicated by point U. 

For one who carries the feet close together, when walking or 
standing, the position for the center of the front of the forepart 
should be changed as from F to 2 on Diagram 66. The peculiari- 
ties of the form for whom this trousers is designed are the 
wearer stands with the feet closely together, and he toes in. 
or perhaps more properly speaking, the toes are about as far 
apart as are the heels. 

For a man whose feet have the usual spread, and who car- 
ries the feet closely together, the center of the forepart should 
be established as at U, and on the backpart the position of points 
16 and 17 in their relation to S and T will be as on Diagram 61. 

The measures used for the accompanying diagrams are as 
follows: 24 knee-length, 42 outside seam, 32 inseam, 31 waist, 
38 seat, iSy 2 knee, 17 bottom. The following memorandum is 
entered with the measure, viz. : "Carries feet close together and 
toes in." 

Diagram 66. — The Forepart. 

All the points excepting E, O, Q, R, S, T, U and 2 are ob- 
tained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 60. 

(150 



A to O is yi waist as before, and for forms with a small waist 
ij dropped y 2 inch below L. 

F to 2 is 1/12 seat. Connect 2 and B to establish E. 

E to Q and E to R are each % knee. 

Deduct 3 inches from the size of the bottom and divide one- 
half of the remainder equally, on each side of 2 to establish S 
and T. 

From 2 to U is i l / 2 inch, more or less, according to the size 
of foot and size of trousers-bottom. 

Finish as represented, and cut out the pattern, making notches 
at G, O and R. 

Diagram 67. — The Backpart. 

All the points, excepting W, 12, 13, 16 and 17, are obtained 
in the same manner as explained for Diagram 61. 

V to W is 1/12 seat. The backseam may be drawn from V 
through X, or from any point backward from V not to exceed 
1/12 and 1/24 seat according to the shape and requirements of 
the wearer. For forms with flat seat, and whose occupation 
does not demand unusual stooping or sitting, the backpart should 
be drafted as explained for Diagram 61 to establish W. For 
forms with prominent seat, or for working or sitting trousers, 
the backseam is shaped from V. 

For the reasons stated in the foregoing, the center of the 
backpart, point U, is kept directly under the center of the fore- 
part, and the width of the bottom of the backpart is divided 
equally on each side of U as follows : 

S to U and from below U to 16 is y 2 inch more than a full 
half of the bottom. Below U to 17 is the same as from below U 
to 16. 

Q to 12 is y 2 inch. R to 13 is l / 2 inch. 

The Fly for this and the preceding diagrams is drafted as 
follows: 

Lay the forepart pattern over another piece of paper and 
mark by it as from A to O and down to K as represented by 
the broken line on the small diagram superimposed on the dia- 
gram for the backpart. 

K to 2 is iy 2 inch. From 3 to 4 is 2 inches. From 4 to 5 
is 2 inches. Shape the seam-edge from 2 to 3, hollowing ]/ 2 inch 
as represented. Point 5 is y inch above the broken line. The 
end of the strap below 5 is 1 inch wide. Shape as represented. 
The material is cut off on the left, or fly side, below 4. 



(152) 



-4 m 




5 2 F T 

Diagram 66. 



(153) 



BROADFALLS. 

Diagram 68. 

TPHE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as fol- 
lows: 25 knee-length, 43 outside seam, 45^ front-length, 31 
inseam, 52 waist, 50 seat, 23 knee, 19 bottom. 

The seat is flat and the feet are carried with about the usual 
spread at heels and toes. 

All the lettered and numbered points are obtained in the same 
manner as explained for Diagrams 60 and 61. 

The width of a waistband is added to the backpart t V4 inch 
above 4 and 1%. inch above W. 

Obtain the height of point O by the application of the front- 
length as explained by Diagram 62. 

The forepart is raised 1 inch above O and P. 

The shaded part represents the bearers. It is a separate 
piece, and includes the remaining part of the band. To produce 
the bearers lay the forepart pattern over another piece of paper 
and mark by it from P towards 1, from P to O and from O to- 
wards N. Remove the pattern. 

Add the width of a waistband, 134 inch above () and P and 
■Vj inch forward of the line O N. The opening at the side is 
usually from 6 to 7 inches deep, and at the front 4 to 5 inches. 
Pockets are inserted in the bearers as represented by the curved 
line between A and 1, but may be placed at the sideseam if pre- 
ferred. 

The fronts of the bearers are held in place by buttons and 
buttonholes as represented. 

For forms of this class, when the falls are not desired, the 
top of the forepart will be as represented by the broken line 
P O, and the back part by the line from 4 to W. The band 
should then be cut on a strong curve on the seam-edge as repre- 
sented on the small diagram at the left. 

From 5 to 6 is the seam-edge. From 1 to 2 is a full half of the 
waist. From 1 to 3 is 1^4 inch. From 2 to 4 is 2V2 inches. Add 
r inch outlet from 1 to 6, and 2 l / 2 inches turn-in from 2 to 5. 



('54) 




Diagram 68. 

(155) 



KNEE-BREECHES. 
Diagram 69. 

HTHE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as fol- 
* lows: 24 knee-length, 27 length to garter, ijy 2 inseam to 
garter, 32 waist, 36 seat, 14^ knee, 13^ garter. 

The Forepart. — Square, forward and downward from the 
circled disk. 

From the circled disk to G is the hip-rise. Square forward 
from G. 

G to H is y 2 seat. H to I is 1/32 seat. H to J is 3^ seat. H 
to K is 1/6 seat. 

B is half-way from G to J. Square upward and downward 
from B. This establishes A. 

A to C is the knee-length. A to D is the length to the garter. 
Square upward and downward from H. This establishes L. 
Connect L and I. 

H to M is 1/6 seat. Square forward and backward from 
M, C and D. This establishes N and S. 

A to O is % waist. O to P is y 2 waist. Shape from O to M 
and J, and from O to N and K. 

R is y% inch forward of the line H S. R to Q is a full half 
of the knee. S to T is a full half of the garter. Shape the side- 
>tam from P through G and Q to T and the inseam from J and 
K through R to S as represented. Shape the bottom y 2 inch 
below S and T. 

Cut the forepart and make notches at G, R and Q. 

The Backpart. — Lay the forepart pattern over another piece 
of paper: extend the cross-lines at the knee and bottom, and 
the line above A. 

Pivot at S and sweep forward from K. Pivot at T and sweep 
backward from G and P. 

B to V is 2/3 seat. Connect J and V to establish X. 

H to Y is ^4 seat. Shape from V through X to Y as repre- 
sented. 

V to 4 is 2 inches more than y 2 w r aist, when a y 2 inch V is 
required, as for a small waist. When the V is not required, as 
for a corpulent form, then from V to. 4 is 1 inch more than y 2 
waist. 

X to 6 is y> seat. From 6 to 7 is 2 inches. 

R to 13 and S to 16 are each >4 inch. Shape the inseam from 
Y through 13 and 16. 

R to O and 13 to 12 is 1 inch more than the knee. S to T 
and 16 to 17 is 1 inch more than the garter. Shape the outside 
seam from 4 through 7 and 12 to 17, and add a button-stand 1%. 
inch wide at the bottom as represented. 

The extra length of y> inch given to the forepart below S 

(156) 



and T is put full on the backpart from the knee to the bottom, 
and the fullness pressed in to form a pocket for the knee. 

The tops may be finished with a separate waistband, or the 
band can be cut whole with the forepart and backpart, as shown 
on the next diagram. The fronts close with a fly. 

Cut the pattern and make notches at 8, 12 and 13. Make the 
garter ->4 inch wide (the finished size). 




Diagram 69. 

dS7) 



CYCLING BREECHES. 

Diagrams 70, 71 and 72. 

HpHE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as fol- 
' lows: 23 length to small-of-knee, 13J/2 inseam, 34 waist, 38 
seat, 13 small-of-knee, 14^ calf. 

Diagram 70. — The Forepart. 

Square forward and downward from the circled disk. From 
the circled disk to G is the hip-rise. Square forward from G. 

G to H is y 2 seat. H to I is 1/32 seat. H to J is 3^ seat. 
H to K is 1/6 seat. Square upward from H to establish L. Con- 
nect I and L. H to M is 1/6 seat. 

B is half-way from G to J. Square upward from B to estab- 
lish A and extend the line downward towards D. 

A to C is the length to small-of-knee. C to D is 2]/ 2 inches. 
Square forward and backward from M to establish N. Square 
forward and backward from C and D. 

D to S and D to T are each a full fourth of the small-of-knee. 
Connect G and T to establish 1. Connect J and S to establish 2. 

A to O is l /^ waist. O to P is ^ waist. From 1 to Q and from 
2 to R are each y 2 inch or more, according to the fullness desired. 
Shape between all the points as represented. The bottom is 
rounded *4 inch below D. Add 2 inches above P for the waist- 
band, or the band can be made a separate piece if desired. 

The button slit between T and D is 2 inches from T, and is 
2 inches long. Cut the pattern and make notches at G, Q and R. 

Diagram 71. — The Backpart. 

Lay the pattern for the forepart over another piece of paper ; 
mark the cross-lines at the knee and bottom, and extend the 
line above A. 

Sweep from H through K towards Y, finding a pivot near R. 
Sweep backward from P on the forepart and from G. pivoting 
atQ. 

H to Y is x /x seat. Q to 12, R to 13. S to 16 and T to 17 are 
each ]/ 2 inch. 

B to V is 2/3 seat. V to W is 1/24 seat. Connect J and V 
to establish X, and shape from W through X to Y as represented. 
(Or, the back-seam may be shaped from V.) 

W to 4 is 2 inches more than x / 2 waist when a y 2 inch V is 
required to be taken out at the waist-line, and 1 inch when the 
V is not required. 

X to 6 is y 2 seat. From 6 to 7 is 2 inches or 2^ inches for 
quite easy breeches. 

(158) 



Shape between all the points as represented. The bottom i< 
hollowed y 2 inch between 16 and 17. 

Add 2 inches above 4 and i# inch above W for the on-grow- 
ng waistband, unless a separate band is desired. Cut thf paT 
tern and make notches at 8, T2 and 13. P 



■ > be, 




Diagrams 70, 71 and 72. 



(159) 



Diagram 72. — The Continuations. 

Square downward from the slit in the forepart, and about 2 
inches below square forward as from A. 

Square downward from S to establish B. 

A to O is Y^ inch. O to C is 1^ inch more than the small- 
of-knee. A to D is 4 inches. D to G is ^ inch. B to E and E 
to F are each ]/ 2 inch. 

Square forward from D. G to H is 1 inch more than the size 
of the calf. E to J is 4 inches. Shape as represented and add 1 
inch from C to K for a button-stand. 

RIDING BREECHES. 
Diagram 73 to 79. 

HpHE breeches are usually made of whipcord. White buckskin 

or stockinette is sometimes used when the coat is from scarlet 
cloth. The continuations may be of the same material as the 
breeches, or of box-cloth. 

The measures used for the accompanying diagrams are as 
follows: 23>4 waist-to-knee-cap, 26^2 to small-of-knee, 30 to 
calf, 35 to bottom, \6]/ 2 crotch to small-of-knee, 33 waist, 38 seat, 
15 bent-knee, 13 small-of-knee, 14^2 calf, 11^4 bottom. 

The last four measures are taken snug over the stocking. 
A tape may be fastened around the small-of-knee and the second 
and fifth measures taken to it. 

Diagram 73. — The Forepart. 

Square forward and downward from the horseshoe. From 
shoe to A is the difference between the second and fifth measures, 
10 inches. Square forward from A. A to B is / 2 seat, 9^ 
inches. B to C is 1/32 seat, about y% inch. B to D is ^ seat, 2% 
inches. B to E is 1/6 seat, 3^ inches. 

F is half way between A and D. Square upward from B and 
E to establish G and H. Connect C and H. 

G towards K is % waist, \)/% inches. K to J is ^2 waist, 8^4 
inches. 

B to 2 and C to 3 are each 1/6 seat, 3^ inches. Shape the 
top from J towards I, which is y 2 inch below H. 

I to K is -34 inch. Draw a line from K towards L parallel 
with I to J. K to L is 2 inches. Connect F and L. L to M is 
two-thirds of the distance from L to F. Square downward 
from F. 

G to N is 1 inch more than the length from waist to knee-cap, 
24«)4 inches in all. 

(160) 




S T 
Diagram 73. 



(i6r) 



G to P is I inch more than to small-of-knee, 2yy 2 inches in all. 

G to Q is i inch more than to the calf, 31 inches in all. 

Square forward and backward from N, P and Q. 

X to R is a full fourth of the bent-knee, 3^4 inches. P to 5 
is a full fourth of the small-of-knee, 3^4 inches. Q to S is a full 
fourth of the calf, 2>H inches. Shape the inseam from D and E 
to 5 as represented. 

P to Z is 1 inch. Pivot at Z and sweep upward and down- 
ward from 5. From 5 to X and 5 to Y are each ]/ 2 inch. Con- 
nect Z and X. Connect Z and Y. Finish the inseam from Y 
to S and the dart as represented. 

Q to T is 1/12 seat, about 1 s s inch. Connect A and T. This 
establishes U 

R to V is a half inch less than a full half of the bent-knee, 7 
inches. A to AY is 1/12 seat, about iy$ inch. Shape the out- 
side seam from J through W, V and U to T as represented. 

A small tab to finish 194 inch long and 1 inch wide is 
added at the bottom as from T to 4. The notch at 6 is ]/ 2 inch 
above U. The notch at 7 is 4 inches above the notch at 6. R to 
the notch at 8 is the same as V to 7. Notch also at W. Mark 
for five buttonholes, the middle one opposite U and the others 
1 inch apart. There is also a buttonhole in the tab. 

Diagram 74. — The Backpart. 

Lay the forepart pattern over another piece of paper and 
extend the lines past R and S. 

Draw lines 1 inch above V towards 22, parallel with the line 
V R; 1 inch above U towards 21, parallel with the line U 5, and 
1 inch above T towards 20, parallel with the line T S. 

Pivot at 5 and sweep outward from E. Pivot at W and 
sweep outward from J. 

E to 12 is y 2 inch more than 1/12 seat, 2]/^ inches. Shape 
the inseam from 12 towards 5 as represented. 

From 5 to 15 is 1V2 inch. Establish O opposite and 1^2 
inch from U. Pivot at O and sweep downward from 15. 

From 15 to 17 is 1 inch. Shape the dart from O to 15 and to 

Extend the line below 17 parallel with the inseam above 15. 
From 17 to 18 is 1 inch. Finish the inseam from 18 to 19 
parallel with the forepart. 

S to T and 19 to 20 is 1 inch more than the calf, 15^ inches 
in all. 

From 5 to U and 5 to 21 is 1 inch more than the small-of- 
knee, 14 inches in all. 

R to V and 16 to 22 is 1 inch more than the bent-knee, 16 

(162) 




Diagram 74. 



(163) 



inches in all. W to 14 is 1/12 seat, about i^s inch. Shape from 
14 through 22 and 21 to 20, and add i l / 2 inch for a button-stand 
as represented. Shape the bottom from 19 to 20. 

I to 9 is Ys seat, 2^ inches. Draw a straight line from D 
through 9. From 9 to X is % seat, 4^ inches. Point 11 is 
directly opposite 3. Shape the backseam from 34 inch backward 
of X through 9 and 11 to 12 as represented. 

From X to 13 is 1 inch more than l / 2 waist, 9*4 inches. 

From 20 to the notch at 23 is the same as from T to the notch 
on the forepart at 6. The notches at 24 and 25 are opposite 
those at 7 and 8. 

Measure the forepart between the notches at 7 and W, and 
make from 24 to 14 the same. Also measure from W to J and 
make from 14 to 13 the same. O is the same as on Diagram j^. 

Add iv 4 inch above 13 and i T 4 inch above X for the waist 
band and finish as represented. 

When a dart is required, as for a small waist, X to Y is 
2 inches more than l / 2 waist. Take out a l / 2 inch dart as from 
26 to 27. 

The reinforcements, made of buckskin, extend 2/3 the length 
of the leg above S. 

Diagram 75. — The Continuations on the Forepart. 

Square the lines T S and T 1. Points T, O and S are the 
same as the corresponding points on Diagram 73. Square down- 
ward from S. 

1 to T and 2 to S are each the same as the difference between 
the length to the calf and bottom, 5 inches. 

J from 1 is ^s inch. Shape from T to J and ]/ 2 inch above 
the line T S as represented. 

Diagram 76. — The Continuations on the Backpart. 

Square the lines 2 to 3 and 2 to 6. 20 from 2 is 34 inch. 19 
from 20 is the same as between the corresponding points on the 
backpart. (Diagram 74.) 

3 from 19 is 34 inch. 1 from 19 is the same as 19 to Q. 
(Diagram 74.) Square downward from 1 and 3. 

6 from 2, 5 from t and 4 from 3 are each the same as T to 1. 
(Diagram 75.) 

The size around the bottom is 11 34 inches. To this must 
be added i J / 2 inch for six seams. This gives 12^ inches. By 
measuring from 2 to J (Diagram 75) and 4 to 6 (Diagram 76) 
we find that it measures ijy% inches, or 4% too much. This is 
disposed of by taking out 1/5 of it (% inch) from 2 to K (Dia- 
gram 75), and the same amount from 4 to E, M to 5. 5 to N and 

(164) 




2 K 




4 E /W 5 N 6 

Diagrams 75 and 76 



(165) 



6 to O on this diagram. The top is shaped y 2 inch above the 
line from 2 to 3. Add 1^2 inch for a button-stand and finish 
as represented. 

Diagram JJ. — On this diagram the upper part of Diagram 73 
is shown with the fall turned down. To form the bearer, which 
is shaded, proceed as follows : 

From the front of the fall to A is }i inch. A to B is 2*/ 2 
inches. M is the same as on Diagram 73. Shape the bearer 
from A to B and B to M as represented. 

The band is cut 2% inches wide, extending from the side- 
seam to the front of the bearer. It may be cut whole with the 
forepart from the sideseam to the inside seam of the bearer if 
desired. In which case that part of the band which is forward of 
the line above M is cut whole with the bearer, the seam above 
M extending to the top of the band. 

Diagram 78. — Here is shown the position of the fall when 
in place. It is finished with a welt 1% inch wide, which is 
sewed to the inseam of the fall, stitched all around and tacked 
at and across its pointed end. The fall and bearer are held in 
place by buttons and buttonholes as represented. 

Diagram 79. — The breeches may be cut without the darts at 
the small-of-knee, if preferred, as shown on this diagram. 

Points N, P, O, R, 5, S, T, U, V and the notches at 6 and 7 
are obtained in the same manner as explained for Diagram 73. 
The inseam is shaped to 5, and the dart is omitted. The notch 
at 9 is ^2 inch above 5. The notch at 8 is 4 inches above 9. 

To draft the backpart, draw straight lines 1 inch above and 
parallel with line VR, U5 and T S. Shape the inseam towards 

5. This establishes 18. 

Extend the line below 18 to 19 parallel with line 5 to S. 
S to T and 19 to 20 is 1 inch more than the calf. 
From 5 to U and 18 to 21 is 1 inch more than the small-of- 
knee. 

R to V and 16 to 22 is 1 inch more than the bent-knee. 

The notch at 10 is T / 2 inch above 18. The notch at 25 is 
opposite 8. 

From 20 to the notch at 23 is the same as from T to 6. From 
23 to 24 is 1 inch less than 6 to 7. 

The fullness of 1 inch on the forepart between the notches 

6, 7, 8 and 9 is put on full to the backpart between the corre- 
sponding notches. 



(166) 




S Q T 

Diagrams 77, 78 and 79. 



067) 



SINGLE-BREASTED SACK COAT. 

Diagram 80. 

*TpHE measures used for the accompanying diagram are as found 
on the table for a form of 36 breast. Tt is a highly artistic nov- 
elty and commands the admiration of the observer by its pleasing 
lines and graceful proportions. For a man 5 feet and 8 inches 
in height the length is 31 inches. The side seams begin well 
under the arms, and curved slightly to the waist. From there 
they run straight to the bottom. They are vented to the seat- 
line and the bottom corners are slightly rounded. It is nearly 
close-fitting at the back-waist and has a distinct flare about the 
hips. The bottom has a pronounced dip towards the front. 

To Draft. 

Square forward and downward from A. 

All the points on and above the breast-line, and all those on 
the waist-line, excepting F, T, 9, 10, and 1 1, are obtained in the 
same manner as explained for Diagram 25. 

The end of the roll and points 23, 24, 25 and the collar are 
established according to style, as explained for Diagram 26. 

C to F is 34 inch. 6 from 29 is y 2 inch less than y{ breast. 
Draw a straight line from Z to 6. This gives T on the waist-line. 
.Square downward from T to establish 8. 

The back-waist surplus (T to U) is 2^4 inches for this draft. 
About one-half of this is taken out as from T to 9, say i l /> inch, 
and fyg inch between 10 and 11. The total amount taken out be- 
tween T, 9, 10 and 11 is about */\ of the quantity between T 
and U. 

9 from T is then i]A inch. 10 from 9 is 1/6 waist. N is half- 
way between J and M. Draw a straight line from N through 10. 
This gives 26. 

11 from 10 is % inch as above explained. 27 from 26 is J / 2 
inch. Shape from N through 11 and 27 as represented. 

12 from 7 is 3^2 inches plus the quantity between 8 and 20, 
4y 2 inches in all for this draft. Draw a guide-line from 9 through 
12 and shape from 5 through 9 and 12 as represented. 

31 from 30 is 1^2 inch. 28 from 5 is the same as 6 from 5. 

Square downward from 3 and establish 32 half-way between 
the waist and seat-lines. 

18 from 11 is the same as 35 from 10. Shape between all the 
remaining points as represented. 

(168) 




Diagram 80. 

(169) 



FANCY CUTAWAY. 

Diagram 81. 

A COAT that combines pleasing lines and some novel features. 
** At the back-waist it is shaped to the form and there is an 
entire absence of a seam across the waist. For a form of average 
height the lengths are 18^2 to fashionable-waist and 37 full 
length. The remaining stvle features are clearlv shown on the 
diagram. 

To Draft. 

Square the lines A 19 and A E. 

All the points not herein explained are obtained in the same 
manner as explained for Diagram 25, excepting style points 21, 
22, 23, 24, 25 and the end of the roll, which are established ac- 
cording to style. 

The run of the shoulder seam is obtained by drawing a 
straight line from H midway between P and O. This gives 20. 
Connect 20 and 1 to establish 5. 

Connect 5 and O to establish 18. 

6 from O is 54 i ncn more than y breast. 7 from E is y inch 
more than O to 6. Shape from 5 through 18 to 6. This gives 
T. Shape from 6 to 7 rounding forward of a straight line % 
inch as represented. 

F to T and S to U is the back-waist. Square downward from 
U to establish n. 

8 from T is two-thirds of the quantity between T and U. 12 
from 11 is 3 inches when the seat is 5 inches larger than the 
waist, y inch less than 3 inches for each inch that the difference 
between the waist and seat is less than 5 inches, and y inch more 
than 3 inches for each inch that the difference is more than 5 
inches. Draw a straight guide-line from 8 through 12 and shape 
from y m ch forward of 5 through 18, 8 and 12 to 28, which is 

about 1 inch forward of the guide-line at the bottom. 

Sweep from T pivoting at 18 to establish 26, and make 28 from 
26 the same as 7 from T. 

The shape of the front below 3 is wholly a matter of style. 
For this diagram 30 from 2Q is 1/3 breast. 31 from 30 is 2 
inches. 

9 from 8 is y± breast. 10 from 9 is the same as U to 8. 

N is half-way from J to M. Draw a straight line from N 
midway between 9 and 10. This establishes the back-end of the 
pocket opening. 

Pivot at 19 and sweep forward from the back-end of the 

(170) 




Diagram 81. 

(17O 



pocket. The front of the pocket is established y 2 waist forward 
of the back-end. 

The flap is 2> l / 2 inches wide. Connect the front of the pocket 
and O. and finish as represented. 

OPERA COAT. 

Diagram 82. 

THE measures used are 40 breast taken over the undercoat, and 

44 length. 

Square forward and downward from the Star. 

Star to A is 2/3 breast. A to B is y inch less than 1/16 
breast. 

B to C is 34 breast. A to D is ^4 i ncn more than Y 2 breast. 
A to E is the length. Pivot at the Star and sweep from B, C, D 
and E. This "ives E. 

E to J is y% inch more than 1/6 breast. Draw a straight line 
from Star through J. This o-ives G, H and X. 

K is half-way from G to H. Square out from K. 

K to L and X to O are each 2 inches. K to M is Y^ inch. 

P is half-way from D to |. Connect Star and P. This gives 
T and U. 

Q is half-way from D to P. Connect Star and O. This 
gives S. 

R is half-way from P to J. Connect Star and R. This 
gives W. 

V is half-way from U to P. Connect S and V. This gives I. 

Connect AY and U. AY to 3 is the same as S to I. 

O to Z is y$ breast. Draw a straight line from T through Z. 
r J nis gives 2. 

R to Y is l / 2 inch less than H breast. T to X is 1/12 breast. 
Draw a straight line from X through Y. This gives 1. E to 4 
is 2 inches. 

Shape between all the points as represented. The shoulder 
seam is rounded out y 2 inch from the straight line from 3 to W. 
The opening for the hand is 3^ inches below Y and is 12 inches 
long. 

The Collar — Square upward and forward from 4. 

6 from 4 is the size of the neck. (A to S and AY to M.) 5 
is half-way from 4 to 6. Square upward from 5 and 6. 7 from 
4 is 2 i y 2 inches. 8 from 5 and 9 from 6 are each 2 inches. 11 
from 8 is 1 inch. 10 from 7, 12 from 11 and 13 from 9 are each 
3/^> inches. The stand is shaped y inch backward of 4, y inch 
below 5, and 2 inches forward of 6 and 9. The leaf is shaped 

inch forward of 13. 



F<?)— 



-J(«> 



)K-<$)S- 




r^ o 






R®' 



s S 




2 



Diagram 82. 



(173) 



THE IMPORTANCE OF RIGHT MEASURES. 

HTHE best way to avoid most of the alterations which usually 
■ obtain is to start right. 

The first thing to be done is to ascertain the requirements of 
the form to be fitted by a direct and right measurement of the 
form and its several parts. When this is done on right principles, 
intelligently, and with approximate correctness, there will be but 
few alterations so far as the fitting qualities are concerned for 
which the cutter is justly blameable. 

It is quite natural for the inexperienced cutter to think that 
every wrinkle is due to some mistake on his part. Perhaps they 
are. The more experienced and skilful, however, will not grant 
this as readily. He will find the cause of the trouble. He will 
trace it, if not at once apparent, perhaps to a fault on his part, 
and perhaps to some other source. 

How can a cutter keep on good terms with himself who finds 
that, as a rule, he must pull his work apart, take off here, let 
out there, and perhaps have to make another garment entirely? 
There is no necessity for such inefficiency, and it ought not to be 
tolerated. 

No progressive cutter will be content until the alterations at 
the try-on, inasmuch at least as they relate to fitting qualities, 
are reduced to the minimum. The purpose of a try-on should be 
to detect any possible error in fit or style, rather than to depend 
primarily on it as the only way by which he can secure either. 

Profuse instruction as to alterations would not be as impera- 
tive as heretofore if the work is started right. Methods and 
principles that are just right for the wholesale trade, and that 
are also of great value to the custom-cutter, are alone inadequate 
for the needs of the custom-cutter. Methods for drafting by 
proportions alone, aided by the try-on, when intelligently used, 
will secure a fairly good average in results, but the average will 
be a considerable below ioo per cent. The custom-cutter is ex- 
pected to do much more than the wholesaler. He must employ 
methods that are adequate to meet the requirements of ioo per 
cent of his customers. 

To accomplish this he must, as a primary necessity, "know 
how to measure." 

The necessity for measures is due to the fact that forms vary 
greatly in development. If these variations are not ascertained 
at the start, they will have to be conformed to at the try-on. The 
result is expense, and more or less unnecessary bother. 

It matters not to the cutter who knows what are the proper 
measures, and knows how to take them, what the shape may be. 

(174) 



He can determine in advance much important data, and escape 
very many pitfalls in which his less qualified brother is often 
entangled. The changes at the try-on are minimized, and very 
many are rendered unnecessary. 

There are those who condemn measures as "mechanical and 
unreliable." They are, to be sure, when wrongly taken or ap- 
plied. But there is no order of genius that can produce a perfect 
pattern unaided by the mechanical appliance known as the tape- 
measure unless the form is a proportionate one. The addition of 
a column of figures is misleading when it is not rightly added. 
Yet we do not condemn mathematics. 

To some it may be considered of little moment how a gar- 
ment is fitted, so long as it is properly fitted, whether by one 
means or another. I do not so consider the matter. . There are 
conditions under which it is not possible to try-on a garment. 
The one that can arrive at the end desired, not depending primar- 
ily on a try-on and more or less of alterations, is unquestionably 
the most skilful and the most valuable. 

The student, therefore, who desires some day to rank among 
the "top-notchers" must practice measuring. Study carefully 
and follow closely the instructions given in regard to measuring. 
Practice measuring repeatedly, taking a number of convenient 
subjects until you find that a measure taken yesterday is prac- 
tically the same as one taken to-day. Practice alone will give 
all essential accuracy required, also speed and absence of all 
awkwardness and manners of the novice. 

Should you find that the few first garments run a little large 
or a little small as a whole or in any part, take the measures a 
little closer or a little easier as the case may be. Suppose that 
you find coats are full at the blades. Then take the blade- 
measure a little closer than formerly. 

You must know when a garment is properly constructed, or 
have someone about you who does know, and upon whom you 
can rely until you also have that knowledge. A tight lining, a 
short lining, a crooked canvas, seams unevenly joined, sleeves 
unbalanced, neck-gorges stretched or unduly contracted, and 
many other things are matters which must be looked after. Many 
a garment has been killed at the try-on because of a lack of ex- 
perience on the part of the cutter. He does not know the cause 
of the trouble, and does perhaps the very thing he should not 
have done. That is to say, he has directed that the coat be taken 
in under the arm, the scye advanced, and something taken off at 
the shoulder seam. These changes have only made a bad matter 
worse. The two first changes mentioned gave more crookedness 
to the shoulder and reduced the breast size. The other change 
has apparently made it necessary to sink the scye, as the tight- 

(175) 



ness complained of by the wearer has not disappeared. What 
was required was, that the lining should have been let out across 
the coat from the shoulder to the waist or bottom. The narrow 
and short lining contracted the garment, caused the outside ap- 
parent fullness and the tightness complained of by the wearer. 
Beware of tight linings. Beware of short linings. 

It is quite likely that in your early experience there will be 
faults for which you are directly responsible. Blades may be 
full, and there may be wrinkles at the scye and through the 
shoulders, and yet there be no lack of lining and no crooked 
canvas. Again I counsel, endeavor to learn the cause of the 
difficulty. Then apply the remedy where it is required, and 
do not make the same mistake again. If you are only ambitious 
to get out of the particular hole in which you find yourself so 
that you can get the job off your hands, without tracing your 
blunder to its cause, whether in yourself or in someone else, 
you will continue to blunder and stumble all the way along. 

We shall always be deeply interested in your future career 
and invite correspondence on any matter in which we can further 
serve you, in any way. and at any time. 



1176) 



SsPR 8 



1910 






One copy del. to Cat. Div. 









LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




